When getting into the horological world, plenty of terms exist to demarcate different types of watches. Dive, sport, pilot, aviator, racing, and dress watches all see regular use and see some overlap between their designs. One of the most ubiquitous types of watch is the chronograph watch, named for the Greek personification of time itself. 

Chronograph watches are separated from other watches due to their function. The other specified timepieces refer to a mixture of functional and design characteristics. Chronograph watches are defined by one thing alone: The presence of a chronograph in a watch. Chronographs can be integrated into any style of watch as a result of this.

There is a reason that this type of timepiece is popular. They are visually distinctive and feature one of the most versatile watch complications in history.

Below, we’re going to explain the fine details of what a chronograph watch is and does. Once that is done, we’ll highlight a few timepieces with wildly varying aesthetics in chronograph wristwear. 

What Is a Chronograph? 

A chronograph watch is composed of two primary components: A chronograph and a tachymeter. The modern chronograph is read from subdials in a watch, whereas a tachymeter is read from the bezel.

It is possible to find watches that lack a tachymeter, but it’s rare to find a tachymeter watch sans chronograph. Both of these timepieces originated as independent items which were later integrated into watches.

Chronographs

Chronographs are used to measure time like a stopwatch, which is fitting given that the term literally means “time writer.” The original chronograph in 1816 was composed of a paper circle and pen, which rotated to create physical marks. This timepiece was used to chart the movement of the stars. 

Five years later, King Louis XVIII commissioned a special chronograph to time horse races. This specialized use of chronograph functionality holds true today, as independent stopwatches are still used in races. In the 20th century, as chronographs were integrated into watches, they saw use in military ventures. 

Light travels faster than sound. For this reason, it’s possible to estimate the distance of a lightning strike by the difference in time until thunder sounds. The same principle can be applied to the sound of artillery strikes in the distance or generally to time maneuvers. For its rich application, the chronograph is, bar none, the most versatile complication.

Modern chronograph watches utilize subdials in different ways to measure long periods of time. Generally, the large second hand is used to measure seconds, while separate subdials count minutes and hours. A third subdial will often track seconds in the normal function of the watch. 

Chronograph pushers, which control the complication, operate differently based on the model. The pusher is most often found at the 2 o’clock position. Pushing it once starts the timer and pushing it again usually stops it. A third push may then restart it, though each chronograph operates differently. 

The Tachymeter 

The cousin to the chronograph is the tachymeter. Whereas the chronograph measures time (and in some cases can calculate distance), tachymeters measure speed over distance. Speed is able to be calculated no matter what the unit is, as long as the rough distance is known. Tachymeters are most often found on the bezel of a watch or the outer circumference of a dial. 

In order to explain the tachymeter, a simple mathematical formula needs to be explained. Distance traveled divided by time elapsed equals average speed. Distance has to be calculated outside the complication, but inputting time elapsed gives a speed reading, in “X units per hour.” Hours can be converted to minutes by dividing a given reading by 60. 

Because of the nature of a tachymeter scale, tachymeters are best used to measure fast objects or short distances. Tachymeter scales usually begin between 400 and 1000 units depending on the position on the watch the scale starts at.

This is because as time elapsed increases, speed decreases, according to the formula above. The pusher for this complication is usually below the crown, around the four o’clock position on a watch.

To give an easy example of how to use a tachymeter, imagine you are doing a lap around a racetrack. As you start a lap, you press the pusher to begin the tachymeter and press it again as your lap finishes. Your second press came at the 60-second mark, and you know the racetrack to be one mile long. Your speed, dividing distance by time, is one mile per minute, or 60 miles per hour.   

A tachymeter is a far more specialized tool than a chronograph. Despite this, it is an essential complication for racers, boaters, and anyone who values speed.

Halyard Chronograph 

We previously stated that many watch types have some sort of overlap. The result of this can be seen where nautical and chronograph watches meet in the Halyard Chronograph.

This multipurpose watch has a name derived from sailing terminology and a caseback revealing an anchor flanked by ocean waves. The bezel grades softly inward to meet the crystal, showcasing a tachymeter scale printed on the edge of the dial.

The chronograph of the watch utilizes two subdials embedded into the dial at the 3 and 9 o’clock positions. A third, at the 6 o’clock position, is printed onto the dial itself. The first two subdials feature hands colored to match the primary dial hands, while the third subdial has a half-red hand. The printed-on nature of the third dial allows added function in the form of a carefully placed date window. 

As a sports watch, performance under duress is key. This particular timepiece has water resistance testing at 100 meters and a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. A stainless steel 316L case offers supreme corrosion resistance whether exposed to droplets on land or full immersion at sea. 

Advanced Options

The Halyard Chronograph comes in five different colorways to match every sense of style. 

• The white dial with tan leather strap, linked above, uses white, pearlescent, and black design motifs to enhance red accents.
• The sky blue dial with tan leather strap uses bright visuals and silvery subdials for a glimmering approach to nautical style.
• The navy dial and brown leather strap use dark visuals for a sharp contrast in business or casual settings. 
• The black dial and black leather strap allow for the brooding allure of monochrome aesthetics.
• The last features a 24kt rose gold PVD plated case and multicolored dial.

The powerfully made Halyard Chronograph has visual components to fit any occasion and design elements needed  to fit any environment.

Solar Chronograph 

The next watch leaves behind oceanside visuals for a language inspired by mountainside vistas and long days camping out. Despite this new focus, the importance of our oceans still has significant input in the design of the Solar Chronograph. This watch is separated from others both by an outgoing design and by a special movement.

True to its name, the watch is powered by a solar movement that gains its charge through a uniquely textured, perforated dial. Though it is a chronograph watch, another complication defines this piece. At the 6 o’clock position is a functional alarm, perfect for reminders or for those sleeping close to their timepiece.

The distinctive design and goals in this sustainable watch go far beyond the movement. Every year, eight million of tons of plastic enter the ocean. The Solar Chronograph in both design and sales seeks to alleviate the issue. 10% of the profits from each watch benefit the Jan & Oscar Foundation, which benefits communities worldwide and spearheads ocean-cleaning endeavors.

Recycled materials and an active approach to wristwear form the cornerstone of the watch. The case is cast recycled, and the strap is made from recycled ocean plastic. A rotating compass bezel matches a compass-shaped second hand and north-facing caseback embossed on a topographic map.

Make It Yours

Three versions of the Solar Chronograph exist, with the same recycled principles behind each one:

• The green dial features a hunter-and-navy strap and steel case for an appearance that evokes the rawness of nature.
• The grey dial features a gunmetal PVD-coated case and gray-green interlaced strap for an industrial appearance on the wrist.
• The black dial highlights black PVD plating and the dark strap, which combines with bright lettering for an impressive contrast.

Knowing Your Chronograph

The chronograph, as a standalone tool and an important component in horology, has seen numerous applications. They have served us from the orbit of the stars to the thrill of racing to the heart of combat. Today, watches are defined not only by their complications, but by the sense of aesthetics guiding their design.

A good chronograph watch is highlighted by its complication—but not defined with it. A strong sense of purpose is important in a watch. This can be showcased in the visual appeal of a timepiece or the design principles which set it apart.

Wherever you go, and however often you use your chronograph, know that it has been breaking horological barriers since 1816.

Sources:

Chronos I Greek Mythology

Understanding Lightning: Thunder I National Weather Service

Trash Free Seas: Plastics in the Ocean | Ocean Conservancy

Water is called the universal solvent for a reason. The liquid is capable of doing everything from removing dried food from dishes to eroding mountains.

Water can rust metal, damage organic materials, and yet, despite its awesome power, it is necessary for life. Water is necessary for all living creatures and is found everywhere, from oceans to rain clouds. 

Water is essential to human life. However, it is also essential for people to have things that are able to stand up to water. This includes shelter, clothing, and accessories. Most clothes protect against water to a certain extent, but only special garments are allowed the designation of “waterproof.”

Confusingly, other garments are labeled as “water-resistant.” Some accessories, like watches, are only ever labeled water-resistant and never waterproof. To some extent, the difference between waterproof and water-resistant products can be intuited by the level of protection they imply.

At heart, however, the difference between waterproof and water-resistant contains both manufacturing differences and legal implications.

What Makes a Product Water-Proof? 

A water-proof product is one that is innately repellent or resistant to water. This includes a wide variety of synthetic materials in garments and rubber in other objects. Waterproof items will eventually break down but take an exceptionally long time to do so. The deciding factor between waterproof and water-resistant products is the extent to which a product resists water.

A wetsuit is made of material that responds well in response to water and—in fact—may operate better under wet conditions. Even if the material were split with a knife and laid flat, it would still react well because of its natural properties.

This can be compared to a normal cotton shirt, which would almost instantly become saturated and heavy. Waterproof products are defined by their innate survivability underwater.

What Makes a Product Water-Resistant?

Water-resistant products are ones that have some waterproofing measures to offer protection. Water-resistant raincoats are not fully waterproofed but may have a coating or finish to protect the exterior from saturation. In many cases, these measures occur in order to protect products that would otherwise be at risk of damage from moisture.

Leather is notoriously vulnerable to moisture. This is doubly true for suede leather products. Numerous products exist to add water resistance to leather and suede shoes. These usually take the form of a spray that settles on the shoe and forms a thin protective layer. 

The important distinguishing factor is this: Water-resistant products do not have the high-powered innate qualities that waterproof products have. However, their effectiveness can be maintained through other measures. 

It is necessary to note that many things cannot be made totally waterproof. Water-resistant measures in cases like this serve to allow them to operate under normal wear and tear in safety. This should be kept in mind when asking our next question: Can a watch be made waterproof? 

Can a Watch Be Waterproof?

If you examine older watches, you may encounter antique watches using the term waterproof, while more recent offerings say “water-resistant.” This does not mean that waterproofing technology has recessed in recent years.

Rather, due to an increased emphasis on trade honesty, international organizations have condemned the use of “waterproof” in watch advertising.

In the early 20th century, the first supposedly waterproof watch appeared on the market. In truth, the timepiece was a massive leap in craftsmanship from any waterproofing measures made in horology before.

However, the piece was only suitable for intense swimming and light diving; it was not truly waterproof. This still saw the start of a movement to create a truly water-appropriate timepiece. 

Taken individually, the components of a watch do not lend themselves to moisture exposure. Batteries can short out under exposure to water, and metal gears rust to the point of obsolescence.

If water breaches the inside of a watch, the timepiece faces a severe risk of destruction no matter what else. This fragility is what makes it impossible for a watch to be truly waterproof.

Despite the danger water presents to a watch, horologists make timepieces fit to function in all manner of circumstances. Dress watches may only see occasional moisture, but dive watches must be carefully designed to operate in the ocean depths.

Calling these timepieces waterproof would be disingenuous, but thanks to precise design choices, competitive water resistance is within reach.

What Makes a Watch Water-Resistant? 

The water resistance of a watch is achieved through both careful consideration of design and material. The first major hurdle a watchmaker has to face is the threat of water entering a timepiece. This hurdle is solved by introducing a material whose hydrophobic properties see it used in tens of thousands of products: Rubber.

Rubber gaskets are used to create water-tight seals in everything from industrial machinery, to cars, to minute timepieces. Small o-rings are precisely sized to seal the gaps where external-facing components of a watch meet. These are usually covered in grease-based lubricant to further protect the gasket and improve its lifespan. This is mostly what prevents water from entering a timepiece.

Rubber gaskets lose their strength over time and eventually will need replacing in order to maintain the watch’s protection. A watch gasket, under regular use in the context of saltwater, will still last for years. Other elements still exist to provide additional safeguards.

The composition of a watch case also affects the way it responds to moisture. Precious metals are all highly corrosion resistant but also costly and potentially easily scratched. High-grade, industrial materials like stainless steel make the best companions for dive watches that see extensive aquatic use. 

Design principles make for great theoretical designs. Only in execution can a watchmaker combine aesthetics and function in one piece.

Water Resistance in Watches 

Most modern watches have water resistance information readily available. It is measured in either meters or atmospheres, the latter of which is equal to ten meters. A watch tested at a certain stated depth should, in theory, work at that depth. However, calculating the true water resistance of a watch is slightly more complicated.

Water resistance refers to the passive pressure exerted by a body of water at a given depth. Movement of any kind will increase the pressure exerted on the watch. For this reason, a watch with 30 meters of water resistance won’t be effective at a depth of 30 meters.  

A great, swim-appropriate watch should have a water resistance of 100 meters. Once this resistance marker is exceeded, we enter the world of the dive watch.

Water-Resistant Watches 

With a water resistance of 300 meters, Jack Mason’s Seatrek Automatic shows what is possible when protective principles meet artistry. Every aspect of the piece, from the case to the dial to the strap, is created with sea-worthiness in mind.

Aesthetically, the case is made from pristine, marine-grade stainless steel. A bathysphere sculpted on the caseback highlights the century-long history of diving culture. 

This aesthetic choice is merited by the aforementioned water resistance, a screw-down crown, and a unidirectional bezel. The last of these is essential as a tool in timing dives.

Bold luminosity markers on the hands and indices also help with legibility in dark waters or late at night. A sapphire crystal, the most durable traditional crystal material, gives protection from all manner of shocks beyond water.

The Seatrek Automatic takes its name both from its nautical prowess as well as the automatic movement behind it. This gives the watch a subtle but substantial feel on the wrist. Two versions of the Seatrek Automatic exist with similar properties but differing visuals. 

Different Variations of the Seatrek Automatic

One embraces the subtlety of monochrome with a black dial with white markers. This understated color scheme is only broken by a blue “Automatic” marker and a dash of red on the second hand.

The other uses a navy dial for a strong contrast with a black bezel. Here, most lettering is in white, but a significant orange presence gives the piece a sporty appearance. 

The Seatrek Automatic comes with two straps, interchangeable thanks to quick-release pins. One is a rubber strap to sleekly fit with any outfit on aquatic excursions. The other is a 316L stainless steel bracelet. 

It is appropriate at sea for marine-grade corrosion resistance and at land for style. The bracelet also comes with a divers extension, allowing it to be easily worn over other pieces of diving equipment. 

Waterproof vs. Water-Resistant 

Without examining their names, it may initially seem that waterproof products are superior to water-resistant ones. Water-proof implies a greater resistance to water, which is an accurate assessment.

However, the question to ask about water-resistant products is the following: How water-resistant is it?

Some things, from fine leather goods to delicate timepieces, will never be waterproof. However, they can be made water-resistant to the point where they are usable far beneath the waves.

When examining a water-resistant watch, it’s critical to know the depth to which it is resistant and what that implies. The right timepiece can be usable on land as well as below the ocean depths while exuding style everywhere. 

Sources:

Water, the Universal Solvent | US Geological Survey

Rubber I Explain that Stuff

Water-Resistant Watches I ISO

How is a wetsuit made | Surfer Today

Throughout history, we’ve always been driven to explore the world around us. People have trekked vast deserts, incredible mountains, the outer reaches of space, and the mysterious depths of the ocean. In each of these instances, they’ve needed special tools to help them.

All watches tell time, but dive watches tell us a lot more. 

The Purpose of a Dive Watch 

On a fundamental level, dive watches are watches designed for functioning well in an environment most machines don’t naturally work well with: Underwater. The slightest bit of moisture inside a watch can damage the interior. There is nothing worse for a timepiece that occurs in anything other than the most extreme circumstances than being waterlogged.

All watches tell time, but dive watches take this capability and make it a life or death situation. Telling time is critical underwater because oxygen is a finite resource. Staying underwater for too long can result in oxygen deprivation and even death, forcing dive watches to be held to an exacting standard.

Dive Watch Complications 

Compared to other sport watches, dive watches may seem a little feature-lite when it comes to complications. In dive watches, legibility is of the essence, causing many visual complications to be eschewed in favor of a simple face, though date windows and other such features are common.  

The reason for this is twofold: The interior of a dive watch must remain legible, and water must remain outside of the timepiece at all costs. Chronographs and other complications which push into the watch risk breaking the airtight seal, and special care must be taken when designing a dive watch with such features. 

Dive Watch Complications

More commonly, dive watches showcase complications that directly impact underwater functionality.

These include:

• Rotating Bezel: One of the main purposes of a dive watch is timing the length of a dive. By rotating the bezel of the watch, it is easy to mark the point where you began your descent. The most conscientious of dive watches feature bezels that only rotate one way to prevent overstaying your dive. 
  
  
• Screw-Down Crown: The opening of the crown stem poses one of the greatest risks for water to enter the piece. For this reason, many dive watches include a screw-down crown, which winds down directly into the case. Similarly, tight screwing mechanisms exist for casebacks as well.
  
  
• Depth: Just because they are called diving watches doesn’t mean they can’t help you in your ascent. By measuring the depth you are at in the water while measuring the time you’ve spent underwater, you can help avoid the bends.
  
  The bends occur when nitrogen in the blood changes states due to rapid changes in pressure, which can cause gas bubbles to form on the ascent. At best, the bends are a traumatic experience that may leave no lasting effects, but at worst, decompression sickness can easily cause death. 
  
  
• GMT: When undergoing cross-time zone travel, either while underwater or while out on a boat, keeping track of time can be a boon so that you won’t have to readjust your watch.

While dive watches may have some complications available in regular sport watches, a variety of unique features make them distinctive in their own right when it comes to craftsmanship.

How Watch Materials React Under Water Pressure 

To summarize the following and quickly answer the question implied by this paragraph heading: Badly. How badly they respond, however, depends on the type of water involved.

Contact with water causes iron to rust through a chemical process that is accelerated by the presence of salt. Due to the small size of watch parts, the smallest bit of rust can cause irreparable damage to the dial, hands, or movement of the piece. 

The case and enclosed machinery aren’t the only aspects of a watch that are affected by water. Naturally, the strap is also impacted by moisture, depending on whether it is partially or wholly submerged and the nature of the moisture it is touched by.

Straps and Moisture

Below is how the most common types of straps are affected by moisture:

• Stainless Steel: Stainless steel comes in a variety of compounds that are marked by overall high strength. While stainless steel is generally rust-resistant, some compounds are stronger in this regard. The 316L compound, in particular, is extraordinarily rust-resistant, giving it the name of “marine-grade” stainless steel. 
  
  
• Rubber: Few materials react as well to water as rubber straps. Rubber is wholly hydrophobic, meaning it does not absorb water and thus responds well to repeated exposure. The con of rubber is that if you are sweaty or in a humid area without using it in the water, it may feel sticky to the skin.
  
  
• NATO Strap: NATO straps are long, single pieces, as opposed to the bifurcated design of most leather straps. The original NATO straps, as well as many today, are made out of nylon. As with most synthetic materials, nylon is highly hydrophilic. This means that while it absorbs water when submerged, it will hold up well as long as it is given enough time to dry adequately. 
  
  
• Leather: All the above materials work well or at least passably in water, but leather is to be kept clear of water whenever possible. In small doses, water may stain the leather. In cases of full submersion, water can cause the leather to dry out and crack, weakening the strap and damaging its appearance. If you see yourself diving or engaging in water sports, either take your watch off or use a strap more appropriate for diving. 

All in all, stainless steel and rubber provide the best protection in water depending on your personal aesthetics, nylon offers a lesser but still functional strap, and leather should be avoided.

ISO Standards

The International Organization for Standardization conducts a wide series of standardization tests for a variety of objects, including standards for water resistance and diver’s watches.

Two of these standards relate to watches in water:

1. ISO 2281: Water resistance standard for all watches.
2. ISO 6425: Various resistance and design standards for diver’s watches.

The first of these standards, ISO 2281, tests overall water resistance as well as specific reactions to temperature, condensation, and pressure. It is important that a watch be able to survive a given water pressure, changes in temperature from extreme heat and cold while protecting the interior components from the dangers of moisture.

Compared to ISO 6425, however, the testing involved here is fairly forgiving as it solely relates to performance in water.

ISO and Diver’s Watches 

The phrase dive watch and diver’s watch may be used interchangeably, but there is a subtle distinction between the two. Dive watch refers to any watch designed for diving, whereas a diver’s watch refers to a watch that has been subjected to and passed the ISO 6425 design and testing standards.

6425 Standards for Design Include

• Water Resistance: While higher water resistances are possible regardless of ISO certification, 100 meters is the minimum for a diver’s watch.
  
  
• Elapsed Time Indicator: If a dive watch does nothing else, it needs to be able to function underwater and let the diver know how long their dive has been going on for safety’s sake.
  
  
• Minute markers: Some minimalist watch dials only show hours markers, but discrete minute markers are essential when it comes to timing your dive.
  
  
• Legibility: A diver’s watch needs to be visible at a distance of 9.8 inches in total darkness and must also contain some indicator, such as a second hand, showing that it is actively running in similar darkness. Luminosity markings serve to fulfill both legibility requirements.

Must Pass These Endurance Tests

• Magnetism: Magnetic interference, as passively deployed by a variety of devices, can cause the gears of a watch to jam together, resulting in lost time or stopped movements. In order to pass muster, a watch must be exposed to a high degree of magnetism without losing more than 30 seconds per day.
  
  
• Shock: Out of all the tests the ISO 6425 mandates, this one seems the cruelest to timepieces. The watch must be struck twice, once on the 9 o’clock position and once on the crystal, with a plastic mallet. After this damage is sustained, the watch must remain accurate within a minute per day of run time.
  
  
• Chemical resistance: The watch must function after 24 hours of submersion in a solution that mimics normal saltwater, ensuring that watches can survive dives of the longest duration. 

The above are only the major testing requirements for the ISO, with the strap and other minute details of each individual watch also being tested. All in all, the ISO provides some of the most in-depth testing of watches out of any organization.

Is ISO Testing Necessary? 

Just because a dive watch lacks ISO 6425 testing doesn’t mean it isn’t a high-functioning timepiece. There are many reasons a manufacturer may decide against testing, including the cost.

Every single watch made from a model must be voluntarily subjected to each test. This makes it prohibitively expensive and time-consuming, depending on the specifics of a model’s batch size and other factors.

While ISO 6425 testing ensures a high-quality diver’s watch, there’s no reason a watch that doesn’t have these standards applied can’t stand as an excellent offering. Ultimately, water resistance testing and examination of a watch’s physical design features can be a good metric to judge a dive watch in the absence of ISO 6425 indication.

Dive Watch History

Prior to the invention of quartz watches, all watches were made from intricate mechanical components. Many things could go wrong with antique watches. These problems included the eventual degradation of components, shocks from dropping or accidentally striking the timepieces,  and magnetism in an increasingly industrial world, causing the gears to stick together. Lastly, constant maintenance was necessary to help the timepiece accurately convey the time, especially after sustaining damage.

In modern Horlogerie, all of these issues have been, if not totally solved, wonderfully safeguarded against, melding survivability and aesthetic beauty in one frame. Arguably, however, there was no bigger threat to the mechanical workings of a watch than moisture. 

Prior to the 20th century, there was no such thing as a waterproof watch. However, in 1927, Mercedes Gleitze became the first British woman to swim the English channel, creating a new world record.

Unfortunately, her claim was put into question when another woman purported to have swum the channel faster. In a bid to quell the (later proven false) rumor, Gleitze undertook a “vindication swim” a mere month later, with a historic addition to her swimming gear. 

First of its Kind: Waterproof Watch

In 1926, one year prior, Rolex produced the Oyster, hailed as the world’s first waterproof watch. One year later, with the vindication swim in the national consciousness, one watchmaker saw the chance to validate his work. Rolex cofounder Hans Wilsdorf sent Gleitze a letter in which he promised to gift her an Oyster for her swim in exchange for her release of a testimonial to the quality of the watch following her swim.

The vindication swim was ill-fated. During her previous successful voyage on October 7th, the water temperature was in the pleasant 60s. Two weeks later, the chill of late fall set in, with water temperatures ranging from 51 to 58. Though seemingly a small change, the icy waters proved treacherous even for a swimmer at the top of her fame.

Ten hours in, with seven miles left to go, Mercedes Gleitze had to be pulled from the water and medically examined, though her exemplary performance under such poor conditions erased all doubt that she was anything but a champion.

Though the swim was unsuccessful, the performance of the Oyster was, and the world’s first waterproof watch survived trial by water.

The Testimonial 

Incidentally, Gleitze did eventually give her promised testimonial that the Rolex Oyster watch was “a reliable and accurate timekeeping companion” despite the submersion in significantly cold water for incredible stretches of time. 

Waterproof No Longer 

While the Rolex Oyster was the first “waterproof watch” in 1926, there is not a single timepiece made today which is to boast that quality. Watches have greatly improved in almost 100 years, so why is this so? Through rigorous testing, it became apparent that “waterproof” is more of an attractive phrase; no watch is truly waterproof. 

Calling a watch waterproof is misleading, to the point that advertising a watch as such is actually illegal in the U.S. As a watch ages, repeated strain reduces its effective water resistance, making any claim to being waterproof dubious.

After all, if the 1926 progenitor was truly waterproof, we’d be seeing Oysters that have spent 95 years on the wrists of swimmers with only minor repairs needed, rather than being treated as the antiques they are. In lieu of waterproofing, modern watches use water-resistance testing to refer to their capability in the water.

The water-resistance of a watch can often be found listed on the back of the case, or failing that, on the manufacturer’s website. “Water-resistance” refers to the water pressure exerted when static at a particular depth, measured in either meters or atmospheres (ATM), with one atmosphere equally ten meters.

The tricky part with gauging the practical water resistance of a watch is in the phrase “static.” Movement, whether of a body through water when swimming or of water on a body as in a shower or sink, causes a higher degree of pressure to be exerted, meaning you probably shouldn’t be taking your 3 ATM watch in the pool with you. 

There are some other extenuating factors that impact the effective water resistance of your watch. Just as cold water caused Mercedes Gleitze to falter, hot water also puts a greater strain on the water-resistant elements of your watch.

The heat of the water and the chemicals of soaps and lotions all spell risk for your wristwatch. It won’t necessarily cause damage after a single or even a few washes; we recommend avoiding taking your watch in the shower or hot tub with you for the sake of longevity. 

The Real Meaning of Water Resistance Markers 

Water resistance markers don’t necessarily mean your watch can be used at the exact depth they list.

Below is a handy guide to get a better feel of the practical usage of your watch:

• No marker: This watch is not water resistant at all, and you should avoid moisture whenever possible. The exception is if you see “ISO 6245” listed on the watch, which means the watch is automatically rated at a minimum depth of 100 meters.
  
  
• 30 Meters/3 ATM: At this rating, your watch is splash resistant, meaning it’ll be fine when washing your hands or in other contexts where it may be exposed to small amounts of water. Avoid taking it in the pool with you, though.
  
  
• 100 Meters/10 ATM: At this point, you can start having some fun with your timepiece. Feel free to go swimming or snorkeling, but leave the deep-sea expeditions to watches better designed to endure them.
  
  
• 300 Meters/30 ATM: Ratings of 300 meters and above make for high-powered diving equipment. These watches truly belong underwater, and if you’re wearing one on your wrist, you’re most likely fresh out of the water or eagerly awaiting your next voyage.

What Makes a Watch Water Resistant? 

While understanding the factors that go into water resistance is front-loaded, explaining what makes a watch water resistant is comparatively simple. In order to prevent a watch from water damage, O-rings made of hydrophobic materials such as rubber, coating in oils to further expel water, are used in the formation and maintenance of gaskets.

Gaskets are used in machines of all sizes, from watches to cars, to prevent dust or moisture from entering where two uneven surfaces meet. O-rings are required, among other places, where the crystal meets the case, and any interactive component that may let water in, such as the bezel, crown, or chronograph pushers.

Many diving watches include screw-down crowns, where the crown stem directly meets the watch case to further protect the piece from water and dust. Otherwise, these elements may break the hermetic seal created by the watch, letting water in and potentially damaging the watch. 

The Seatrek Automatic 

Now that we’ve gone deep into every desirable feature of a dive watch, it’s time to see how Jack Mason’s offerings hold up with the Seatrek Automatic.

The Seatrek Automatic is water tested at 300 meters and has a case made from marine-grade 316L stainless steel, making it a deep-sea voyager for the ages. A screw-down crown and tightly locked-on caseback aids in protecting the interior components.

The Seatrek also comes with a unidirectional bezel, which, while not a standard feature, is an essential one for divers. Because the bezel turns in one direction, moving it accidentally will only result in a perceived increase in dive time, keeping you safe as well as the watch itself. 

Compared to regular watches, the Seatrek Automatic has something inside worth protecting in the way of its Seiko Caliber NH35A movement, powered by the movement of your wrist, housing 24 jewels, and boasting an impressive 41-hour power reserve.

Looks and Matter

Just as much care has been put into the external appearance of the Seatrek Automatic. It boasts a sleek monochrome appearance with a black dial and white numbering and indices in one version. The other iteration features a navy dial with partial orange highlights on the hand and bezel.

A date window placed at the 3 o’clock position adds a dash of functionality without compromising the slightest bit of protection. Speaking of function: Bicolored SuperLuminova markings on the hands, indices, and bezel make it easy to read the watch whether you’re diving at night or plunging to a depth where sunlight becomes an issue.

The box set comes with a 316L stainless steel strap with diver’s extension to maximize comfort, style, and corrosion resistance. It also has a rubber strap to offer a different, albeit still water-effective appearance.

The case, and overall design, are heralded by the exhibition caseback, where a bathysphere, representative of humanity’s earliest attempts at deep-sea exploration, is illustrated in full while surrounded by the waves of the sea and the design features which contribute to the effectiveness of the Seatrek Automatic.

For a watch that goes the distance underwater and provides a cutting silhouette on solid ground, the Seatrek Automatic makes a compelling case for an all-terrain timepiece.

For Additional Consideration: The Seatrek

Newly added this summer: the Seatrek boasts many of the same design features that make the Seatrek Automatic so popular. The protective 42mm stainless steel case, screw-down crown, legibility markers, and bathysphere backing all make an appearance, complemented by a bold new visual language and internal movement.

The Seatrek features a black dial and bezel, with boldly orange hands, indices, and bezel markers. The piece also comes with a unique orange rubber strap, making it go the distance whether you’re poolside, lakeside, or down below the waves.

Supposing you want to trade the bold visual language when you wear the piece indoors in cooler months, quick-release straps make the Seatrek compatible with any Jack Mason 22mm strap. Whether you keep the bright, eye-catching orange strap or trade it in for a subtler brown or black leather, the Seatrek remains an exemplary piece of gear for any traveler.

The Seatrek uses a Miyota 2315 Caliber quartz movement. With this type of movement, you’ll be able to strap it on your wrist without needing to wind or rotate it for the movement to keep time. This is perfect for when you’ve got a packed itinerary and convenient even when you’re scheduled to relax by the shore.      

Modern Diving Gear: Watch vs. Computer 

Some diving gear is a no-brainer: Everyone who plans to go more than a few feet underwater needs both dive-appropriate attire and a source of oxygen, but another tool that has seen increased use is the diving computer.

While dive computers resemble watches in some way, they are a specialized tool made specifically and exclusively for dives. Computers keep time and can be used to set depths, measure oxygen levels, and track the rate of ascent for divers. In short, dive computers do many things a dive watch does, along with other specialized traits.

The biggest visual difference, of course, is that a dive watch is a timepiece that functions equally well in and out of the waves. On the other hand, dive computers are analog devices that look out of place as part of your daily attire.

Some use dive computers, some use dive watches, and others rely on dive computers while wearing a dive watch as a backup in case of primary mechanical failure. If you only see yourself wearing something to aid you on dives, then a dive computer may be in your best interest. If, however, you want a powerful, statement piece sport watch that is truly as practically functional as it is starkly fashionable, go with a dive watch.

Final Examination on Dive Watches 

As long as water has captured our attention, we’ve made designs to help us navigate it. From boats to bathyspheres, to scuba gear, to watches, we’ve fine-tuned the smallest of machines to give us the edge.

You may not always wear a dive watch to undersea expeditions, but one thing is certain: Now, you have a better look at the ingenuity and evolution of this surprisingly complicated piece of watchmaking history.

Sources:

Related How Does Salt Water Rust Metals? I Sciencing

ISO 6425 I International Organization of Standards

Decompression Sickness | Harvard Health

Champion swimmer and record breaker Mercedes Gleitze  | Brighton Museums

Many types of sport watches exist, serving to help us function at our best wherever we are, but special circumstances require special consideration in both form and function. Dive watches go underwater, despite moisture being one of the deadliest things a timepiece can encounter.

Here, Jack Mason will explain what a dive watch is, how it works, and why it is essential.

What Does a Dive Watch Do?

A dive watch serves one main purpose, in that it is a watch designed to function underwater. The first waterproof wristwatch was the Rolex Oyster, produced in 1926 when watches were being made to handle more physical usage. Compared to regular watches, dive watches have specific protective measures taken to keep the internal elements dry.

The two key necessities are that the dive watch both tells and keeps track of time during a dive. However, some watches contain additional features to measure depth, among other things. While a dive watch looks great on your wrist, it also serves a purpose as an essential piece of safety equipment.

What Is a Dive Watch? 

A dive watch is any watch built to function underwater. While a dive watch can be worn on dry land, the rest of this guide will assume you are looking to use a dive watch at its most functional, deep underwater. Generally, a few basic metrics must be met to create an effective dive watch. 

These include:

• Water resistance: The minimum resistance needed to designate a watch as water-resistant for diving is 100 meters. At this level, you can go swimming or snorkeling in your gear.
  
  In order to truly create an effective dive watch, a rating of 200 meters or more is recommended. Just because a watch is rated for a certain number of meters doesn’t actually mean it can be taken that deep underwater, but we will explain that more later. 
  
  
• Luminosity: Underwater, light doesn’t permeate as much as it would otherwise. Whether visibility is occluded because of dim conditions or late-night dives, luminosity markers are a must to keep your watch legible underwater.

This is essential because of our next metric:

• Time Elapsed Marker: If there’s one reason to bring a dive watch, it’s this: Keep track of the world moving around you. There is nothing more important on a dive, save perhaps ensuring the functioning of your oxygen equipment, than knowing exactly how much time has passed since you’ve been underwater.
  
  For this reason, most dive watches have clear systems which allow you to tell how long your dive has gone on.

International Standard for Organization

The ISO provides a formal test for determining a dive watch, but not all dive watches are tested to ISO 6425 (the specific test outline) standards for a variety of reasons. Because ISO testing must be done on each individual watch, and not just a representative sample, doing so can become prohibitively expensive, though you will have the pleasure of knowing your specific watch has been put to the test. 

The ISO tests watches at overpressure, meaning they are able to survive a slightly higher water pressure for periods of time than is stated on the timepiece. The standard also tests for various other durability parameters you may not think about when hunting for a watch to come along with you for a dive.

For example, the watch must remain accurate a day after being exposed to a high level of magnetism. This protects your watch from any other nearby technology. This is helpful whether you’re going on a highly tech-assisted dive or looking to ensure functionality among the numerous sources of magnetism we encounter in our daily lives. 

Under ISO standards, the watch also undergoes shock resistance testing, made to represent a one-meter drop onto a hard surface. This durability test is reassuring to have even on land-faring watches, though the thought of intentionally exposing a timepiece to this and all of the above to test it to its limits might be cringe-inducing for some.

Ultimately, while ISO testing is impressive, due to the intensive, costly, and individual nature of the procedure, it’s hardly the be-all and end-all of determining a high-quality dive watch. 

How To Wear a Dive Watch 

As a fashion piece, you can wear dive watches in most contexts, though we advise you to avoid bringing them to formal events unless you want to give the impression of a James Bond impersonator. Wearing a dive watch is as simple as affixing it on your wrist in much the same manner as you would wear any other watch.

Because you might be wearing a dive watch over a wetsuit, however, many straps meant to be worn with dive watches are built with increased adjustability, which may even include a divers extension to deal with the potential of increased wrist size. 

Water Resistance and Watches 

Earlier, we said that a watch's stated resistance depth isn’t necessarily the depth a watch can be brought underwater. The reason for this is water pressure. The stated resistance tested refers to the pressure exerted by that depth of water when everything is totally static. However, human beings, especially when engaged in activities like diving or swimming, are anything but static.

Movement causes the protective elements of the watch to be exposed to a greater level of pressure than a given depth of water naturally exerts, which impacts the practical use of a watch relative to its stated water resistance testing. 

In practice, a watch with less than 30 meters of resistance should not be exposed to water. 30 meters of resistance makes a watch resistant to light splashes, 100 meters makes a watch appropriate for swimming, and anything above 200 meters makes a watch appropriate for diving.

Protecting a watch from changing water pressure can be complicated, but ensuring water resistance is much easier.  The object which performs the arduous task of protecting the inner components of the watch from destructive water is a small rubber ring coated in oil called the gasket.

This o-ring forms a protective seal between the moving elements of a watch and the internal machinery. While it may weaken and dry out over a lengthy period, it’s as simple as going to a watchmaker to repair the piece.

Strapping On 

As much consideration goes into the materials used in the manufacture of dive watch wrist straps as goes into the construction of the watch itself. After all, the strap of the watch is exposed to just as much water as the exterior of the case itself. 

The all-around strongest material for a dive watch strap is rubber, whose water-resistant properties make them useful as gaskets. Another suitable material is stainless steel. This metal’s overall strength and potential for adjustability are compatible with the fact that some blends, called marine-grade steel, are exceptionally rust-resistant.

While a leather strap is highly attractive on dry land, we recommend avoiding using them on dives as leather does not dry easily and can become damaged or discolored from total saturation. Jack Mason’s dive watches feature quick-release straps, making it easy to dress your watch for any occasion.

Case Study: The Seatrek 

We can’t talk about the essentials of a dive watch without offering a real-life example of what a dive watch should be. For this case study, we’re examining Jack Mason’s Seatrek.

Here’s how it stacks up in our list of dive watch essentials:

• Water Resistance: Testing at 300 meters makes the Seatrek well-adapted for deep waters.
• Luminosity: SuperLuminova markings on the indices, hands, and the starting point on the bezel help with reading both the current and elapsed time. 
• Time Elapsed Marker: As mentioned before, luminosity markings make it easier to read this marker at any given time. However, while this marker is attached to the bezel, that bezel is unidirectional. This means that it is only possible to increase your perceived elapsed time, making it near-impossible to accidentally overstay your dive if you remain faithful to your timer.
• Strap: The Seatrek comes with a rubber strap, ideal for extended stays in the water, that is made with quick-release pins so that it can be swapped out should you wish to switch to a different kind of rubber strap or change to a metal bracelet or leather band for more formal settings.
• Additional Features: The Seatrek is designed with a screw-down crown, which goes directly into the watch case to reduce the risks posed by both water and dust alike. The 316L stainless steel case is highly resistant to chemicals, promising equal protection for the inner and outer workings of your watch.  

One additional feature exists, though it has zero impact on the function or durability of the piece: The exhibition caseback harkens back to the earliest history of diving history, with the inclusion of a bathysphere safely floating in the middle of the peaceful deep seas. All in all, the Seatrek provides a competitive dive watch in function while remaining stylish enough to wear on your wrist at any given time.

Using a Dive Watch 

In the final analysis, dive watches are an invaluable tool for those who truly need them and a high-functioning timepiece for those who simply want a little more water endurance in their accessories.

Whether you see yourself scuba diving in the near future or simply wanted to educate yourself about this storied type of watch, we hope you leave with a better understanding of what makes dive watches special. 

Sources: 

ISO 6425: 2018 I ISO

James Bond's Watch Collection I GQ Magazine

What Makes Luminous Watch Dials Glow, a Brief History of Shine | Bloomberg

Some watches are made for wear in formal settings. Dress watches provide the necessary gravitas for business, parties, or other engagements but may lack the necessary strength for high-powered, specialized activities. Whether traversing land, sea, or the skies, the following sports watches have been made for high performance to meet the needs of any adventurer. 

On Land 

We begin this list by examining watches that go the distance in the circumstance most wear them on a daily basis: Dry land. A watch used on land doesn’t need to survive the deep-sea dives expected of dive or nautical watches, nor does it necessarily need to have the complications found in pilot’s watches. 

For Racers

This watch is made for the speed demons, whose hearts race with the engines of their cars along the open road. The Mirabeau Chronograph showcases that same watch complication originally used to measure horse races, making it a popular inclusion in any racing watch today. 

The unique color choices showcase subdials that perfectly match the dial and tri-colored subdials for an eye-catching pop of style. Like the sky-blue variant linked above, some versions come with a matching punched-leather band, which gives it a look and feel unique to the watch.

For Outdoorsmen 

For those who do their land journeying on foot rather than by car, the Overland Solar is a timepiece that sustains and even rewards its wearers for exposing themselves to the great outdoors. A variation on Jack Mason’s classic Solar Watch, the Overland Solar features a unique solar-powered movement charged through the perforated dial and a manual compass complication.

The solar movement, when fully charged, can last for six months at a time. The caseback, showcasing a compass and what, on closer inspection, reveals itself as a topographic map, makes this a perennial watch for any hiker or outdoorsman.

Another highlight of the Overland Solar is its manufacturing process: The case itself is cast recycled to reduce our waste. While this offering comes with a leather strap, the original Solar Watch comes with a velcro strap made from recycled ocean plastic.

10% of all profits from both solar offerings are donated to the Jan & Oscar Foundation, a humanitarian organization that supports groups worldwide, focused primarily on improving the lives of those in Thailand affected by the disaster. 

At Sea 

Water can be alternately beautiful, serene, treacherous, and awe-inspiring, a haven for all sorts of adventures. Unfortunately, there is nothing more dangerous for a watch than overexposure to water. Precious metals can rust, and if the gaskets which prevent water from getting into a watch fail, the piece can become flooded, permanently damaging the battery and mechanical pieces used to power it. 

No watch is truly waterproof. However, watches can be made to be highly water-resistant. Water-resistance testing refers to the amount of water pressure, which increases with depth, that a watch can safely withstand when sitting in static water. Because of the word “static,” the actual depth a watch can be used at is often less than the depth stated.

For example, watches with 30 meters or 3 ATM of water resistance are only splash resistant. Watches with 100 meters of water resistance are safe to swim with, and watches with a stated water resistance testing of 300 meters and above make for ideal diving tools.

For Swimming 

The Halyard GMT presents a refreshing, powerful nautical watch for those who spend more time over or on the waves than far beneath them. The Halyard line takes its name from a naval term, “haul the yards,” referring to a series of ropes. GMT naturally refers to Greenwich Mean Time due to a capability made possible through the bezel of the watch.

The watch’s bezel is made of anodized aluminum, through a process that makes it highly durable and incredibly corrosion-resistant. The bicolored blue-and red pattern symbolizes night and day, and the hour markings on the bidirectional bezel make it possible to set the time in multiple time zones at once. 

Visually, the Halyard GMT is an understated timepiece whose coloration appears all the more brilliant for the stark white dial, silver indices, and stainless steel metal bracelet it presents with. The caseback, in case there was any confusion about the purpose of the watch, showcases water testing at 100 meters and other core design elements. It reveals an anchor surrounded by a pattern of laurels and the waves of the ocean.

For Diving 

The Seatrek, deserving of its name, is designed in every aspect to evoke the beauty and match the power of the waves. Water-testing at 300 meters is complemented by a durable sapphire crystal, a case made of highly rust-resistant 316L stainless steel, and a screw-down crown. 

Legibility markings on the indices, as well as a unidirectional rotating bezel, make it perfect for timing the length of your next dive. A rubber strap, classic navy blue or bold orange depending on the model, makes for an effective and durable waterproof companion to the Seatrek.

The visual language of the watch is equally considered: One version of the Seatrek matches the orange rubber strap with an understated, eye-catching black dial. The other version showcases a uniquely colored seafoam green dial, whose appearance is only heightened by the navy rubber strap included with the watch.

In the Skies 

In the air, precise readings are the order of the day. Aviator watches showcase large cases to account for the complications necessitated by the nature of the watch, legible faces, and durable materials. These timepieces need to function even without the presence of natural light. 

During WW2, watches were manufactured with radium to provide a signature glow-in-the-dark appearance to the hands and dials, allowing flight missions to occur at night without cockpit lights giving away the position of airplanes.

Also desirable in a watch for the skies is chronograph functionality. The chronograph is a classic watch complication with a deeply nuanced set of uses. Some of the earliest chronographs, as mentioned before, were used to measure races. 

Their modern counterparts are known for the extremely high standard to which they are tested for accuracy. Stopwatch functionality, traditionally represented on subdials and a tachymeter scale used to measure speed across a set distance, gives these aviator watches the appearance they are well known for. 

Pilot’s Watches

One distinctive pilot’s watch is the Avigator. The Avigator takes its design, and even its name from the original men’s pilots watches. Though, thankfully, the radium has been replaced by subtle SuperLuminova luminosity markings. An impressive 45mm case size and multicolored subdials on select versions of it help to make the avigator a strong piece whose statement is as strong as its functionality. 

Another pilot’s watch to be on the lookout for in the Pursuit Chronograph. The three subdials, distinctively placed at the watch’s 6 o’clock, 9 o’clock, and 12 o’clock positions, make for a chronograph with classic function and eye-catching untraditional placement. A 42mm case and sunray dial are complemented by large indices and lettering that maintain legibility. 

Made for the Skies 

Craftsmanship, passion, and precision come together in the AOPA Pilot’s Chronograph. This timepiece, the result of a fruitful collaboration between Jack Mason and the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association, has been designed with even the most intricate of details with pilots in mind.

The acrylic crystal which protects the dial was chosen for the way it responds to impacts and significant changes in air pressure. By integrating both SuperLuminova and Trigalight H3 markings, the chronograph maximizes legibility by showcasing numerous differently colored markings on the hands, indices, and subdials of the watch.

As far as complications are concerned, the watch reveals classic chronograph functionality as well as a rotating bezel. The piece as a whole is protected thanks to a specially designed, anti-magnetic movement guard ensuring the watch can be utilized unimpeded by the magnetism caused by the components of an airplane.

The visual appeal of the watch is designed to be equally as impressive. A black stainless steel case sets it apart from more traditionally-colored pieces, a design choice reflected in the monochromatic language of the face and caseback.

Mentioning the caseback, the outer edge of it highlights all the precise, pilot-requested design choices which went into the construction of the AOPA Pilot’s Chronograph. Also etched into the caseback are the AOPA logo and the Jack Mason name, proudly declaring the partnership which makes this entire project possible.

All-Terrain Watches 

A person who does it all needs a watch that does it all. With the exception of the Seatrek (water resistance tested at an impressive 300 meters), all of the watches listed above feature testing at 100 meters. They also have 316L stainless steel cases that resist the wear and tear an intensely active watch is exposed to.

These are pilot’s watches, racing watches, and nautical watches, but at their core, our watches are designed to be universal, all-terrain timepieces that remain competitive in any context.

Sources:

Radioactivity in Antiques | US EPA

Chronograph – Watch Functions, History and Types of Chronographs I History of Watch

Corrosion - an overview | Science Direct

The influence of barometric pressure on watch and chronometer rates | ResearchGate

From their inception in the 16th century up until the popularization of the wristwatch in the 20th Century, pocket watches were a staple of men’s fashion. What happened? Here, we’ll briefly discuss what gave pocket watches their staying power and explain why making a return to small pocket watches may be worth the investment.

Early History

Peter Henlein designed the first portable watches in the early sixteenth century, though here “portable” comes with a caveat: These early watches were large. So large, in fact, that they were intended to be worn on the neck like a pendant rather than carried in the pocket. Accuracy was also an issue: These early watches were not especially reliable, and as such, only told time to the hour. 

Subsequent developments would streamline the components of the watch, including the use of jewels and oil to reduce the stress put on the components of the watch. Watches and watch components became both smaller and more accurate.

With the coming of the Industrial Revolution and railway travel, the pocket watch became increasingly necessary in day-to-day living. In the context of their invention, pocket watches were traditionally attached using a chain made of some precious material to the wearer's vest or waistcoat, but contemporary usage also has seen them attached to the loops of a pair of pants.

Pocket watches trended smaller for the same reason men’s dress watches trend smaller than sports contemporaries. They are meant to provide a dash of allure as a practical accessory without rumpling the silhouette of the wearer.

Functionally, some pocket watches became known as “railroad watches” because, as alluded to before, they became so precise in their movements that conductors began using them, as certain watches superseded the accuracy of their onboard systems.

Types of Pocket Watches

Though wristwatches showcase a wider range of complications compared to their pocket-based counterparts, pocket watches have a wider range of construction methods. While wristwatches are typed based on the function they serve, pocket watch types are separated based on the design of the case itself. 

• Full Hunter: In this type of pocket watch, the face of the watch is protected by an attached outer case, which can often be released on one side by pushing in the crown. While this offers maximum protection, it also makes it time-consuming if one needs to regularly check the time.
  
  
• Half Hunter: Derived from the full hunter, the Half Hunter features an outer casing that provides a window from which the hands of the watch are visible, making it easy to check the time.
  
  
• Double Hunter: Like the hunter, this type of pocket watch features an outer casing protecting the face. However, the double hunter also features a back casing, which can be released to reveal the mechanical workings of the watch.
  
  When both front and back casings are removed, it is possible to leave the double hunter standing up, making it a perfectly serviceable desk clock.
  
  
• Double Half Hunter: This type of watch features the double-cased properties of the double hunter, as well as the legibility window of the half hunter.
  
  
• Open Face: This design choice has no covering. While this leaves the crystal of the watch exposed, it has the benefit of allowing easy reading of the time. The overwhelming majority of contemporary wristwatches showcase this kind of style. 

A Competitor Arises 

In the 20th century, a series of military conflicts would cause the wristwatch to become popularized and mass-produced, leading to it supplanting the pocket watch. The earliest military wristwatches were actually pocket watches modified to be strapped to the wrist. A bit of trivia: During World War I, some wristwatches with half hunter faces were designed to ensure the protection of the timepiece while still making it easy for soldiers to keep time.

After mass-production of wristwatches arose in response to wartime demand, they began to gather popular appeal as well. Wristwatches were convenient, and in several cases, they had the benefit of being more affordable than their pocket-based counterparts. 

Stylish and practical wristwatches are much more popular than pocket watches in today’s world. However, those who swear by the pocket watch are not entirely uncommon to come by for a variety of reasons.

Size Matters 

All sorts of things determine the size of a watch. Larger watches have more leeway in terms of the internal construction and assemblage of their pieces. This can mean larger sets of gears or wheels, or it can mean the existence of additional complications such as chronographs.

Thinner watches have less room for the watchmaker to maneuver, meaning that by necessity, a greater deal of precise, fine-tuned design is required to keep the watch functional. 

Do pocket watches differ in size compared to their wrist-based counterparts? Examining a list of typical pocket watch sizes with the measurement taken from the movement reveals an interesting trend.

While the upper limit doesn’t radically exceed what’s normally seen in a wristwatch (56mm, whereas the upper limit for common men’s wristwatches is in the upper 40s), the lowest limit is a strikingly small 20.32mm. Common sizes for men start at 38mm. However, many dress watches, which may be the first thing that comes to mind when picturing a pocket watch, run smaller than that.

Advantages of a Small Pocket Watch: Function 

Much can be said about the benefits of a small pocket watch that would be true of any pocket watch. Nay-sayers may call the trend dated, but every powerful statement, whether it be fashion-related or otherwise, will have contrarians to speak against it.  

Here is a list of pocket watches’ functional appeal: 

• Pocket Watches Maintain Value: While sentimental and historical value may trump financial when leaving something behind, the fact remains that well-cared-for watches are commonly a high-ticket item at specialized auctions. This makes an heirloom potentially as economically valuable as it is emotionally. 
  
  
• You Value Classic Movements: Quartz, mechanical, and automatic movements are all popular for various reasons, but only the latter two showcase the delicate machinery which has helped maintain the popularity of watches for connoisseurs. Pocket watches, antique ones, in particular, rely more on these movements to provide the value of intricate clockwork.
  
  
• Distinction: A watch isn’t like a shirt; unless you happen to be a serious collector, it’s doubtful you have dozens of watches to be changed out on a whim. A watch should set itself apart from other watches and set you apart from other watch-wearers.
  
  What better way to do that than buck the trend of what everyone else is wearing and go with a classic timepiece that’s sure to cause a conversation or two?
  
  
• Versatility: Because the pocket watch features three components: The watch, the chain, and an optional decorative fob, there are plenty of ways you can wear it. You can go a traditional manner and keep it attached to a vest button while leaving the watch protected in your pocket, or you can take inspiration from James Dean and let a small timepiece dangle from a loop in your pants.

Advantages of a Small Pocket Watch: Aesthetics 

Here is a list of pocket watches’ aesthetic appeal: 

• Engage with Vintage Fashion: It’s fairly easy to find a low-cost, gorgeous antique pocket watch. Because pocket watches were traditionally hand-made and built to last as a legacy piece, it’s no hassle to locate older, used watches via online retailers or private sellers.
  
  You can even find local antique sellers with at least a few timepieces in stock. Purchasing a watch either in person or from a reputable dealer is the best way to make sure your antique timepiece is everything you want it to be.

• Craftsmanship: On a functional level, watches tell time and perform any other number of tasks. But the aspect which gave them their reputation as a status symbol and as a fashion icon is the precision craftsmanship that goes into them.
  
  A pocket watch is the result of attention to detail in both manufacturing and, for antiques, maintenance. A small watch, in particular, is a mark of highly detailed effort on the part of the watchmaker, requiring smaller gears and efficient use of every square millimeter of space the watch has to offer.

• Legacy: A watch can last a lifetime, but a well-made watch should last several. A pocket watch can make a touching heirloom to pass on. You can decorate the case of the watch, depending on the type, with a photograph inset on the interior of the case or an initial engraving on the exterior. This allows for a vintage pocket watch a beautiful embellishment with real, sentimental value.

The Final Reason For Wearing a Small Pocket Watch 

Why do anything? The answer is, of course: Because you want to. You’re wearing the watch, not vice versa, and for that reason, you choose to wear one that best represents you. A pocket watch is distinctive. A pocket watch is classy. A pocket watch harkens to the highest ideals of elegance and traditionalism while presenting a maverick. 

Sources:

James Dean's Pocket Watch Up for Auction I Business Insider

Peter Henlein and “The Immortal Heart” | Deutsches Uhrenmuseum 

Watch Sizes Guide | RealMenRealStyle

Mechanical watches come spring-loaded with history, so it is no surprise that many connoisseurs gravitate towards the precise engineering which keeps mechanical watches popular today.

For the specialist or antiquarian, pocket watches in particular hold a unique appeal. After studying and collecting enough watches, one might begin to wonder: What if I began to know my watch inside and out?

In the following guide, Jack Mason will explain to the inquisitive horologist how to disassemble your own pocket watch so that it may undergo repair.

Tools You Need Before You Begin 

Below is an exhaustive list of tools needed before undergoing any at-home watch repair. In addition to these, a flat, clean surface on which to do your work is also needed, to keep the watch components both clean and protected during what is a very delicate procedure. 

Essential Tools 

• Watchmakers screwdriver set: If nothing else, buy a watchmakers screwdriver set, and be sure to purchase one specifically made for watches, as opposed to an eyeglass repair kit.
  
  Without a set of screwdrivers precision-made for watch repair, one risks scratching or damaging the screws or other internal mechanisms, which in turn affects the value, appearance, and in extreme cases, functionality of the piece.

• Parts tray: Specialized parts trays for watch components exist, though in a pinch, an inexpensive tackle box or segmented, solid pencil case may work as well.
  
  The important thing is to not place the parts directly on the table you are working on, as this puts the parts at risk of loss if they accidentally get knocked over or roll away.

• Tweezers: A simple set of tweezers are used to remove parts and then set them in place once more. Any pair will do in a pinch, though watchmaking tweezers do exist.
  
  
• Hands Puller/Pusher: These tools exist to remove the hands of a watch without damaging the dial and then place the hands back on when maintenance has been completed. 
  
  
• Loupe: This eyepiece is a small magnifying glass used by jewelers and watchmakers to examine small things, such as the machinery in watches. 

Optional Tools 

• Oil and oiler: To keep the watch and parts lubricated, special oil is needed. The oiler is a thin piece of wire either dipped in the oil, which is then applied to the parts, or else designed to administer a single drop of oil whenever contact is made with a part.
  
  
• Cleaning Supplies: For those truly serious about entering the world of pocket watch repair, investing in a parts cleaner and fluid is essential. It should be noted that the cleaning supplies run more expensive than the other parts on this list and can be dangerous if improperly used.
  
  The solvents in question were not designed for casual in-home use. As such, if you elect to use them, you must be sure to protect yourself from breathing in fumes, work in a well-ventilated space, and avoid any direct contact with the materials.

• Blower: The blower is a tool that pushes air onto watch parts, helping them to dry more readily. The blower does not push spit, which may be contained in small parts when you physically blow on parts.
  
  
• Watch paper: This last tool is the easiest to create an at-home replacement for. Watch paper is used to place drying parts, though any lint-less, absorbent paper would make a good substitute.

A Warning 

Watches are delicate machinery. In the next section, we will be explaining both common watch problems, as well as how to repair them. We do not advise you to attempt repairing an antique pocket watch if this is your first try at repair. We also ask you to consider the level of risk you are accepting when you attempt to repair any watch without the direct assistance of a professional watchmaker.

You will most likely cause a small amount of damage to the first pocket watch you repair. This is part of the learning process. We also repeat that if you want to use cleaning fluids, you must show the utmost caution and not expose yourself, children, or pets to the fumes accidentally.

Also: It will be helpful to consult movement diagrams during the process, to take photos of your own piece, as well as to make a note, when making in-depth repairs, of the order in which components are removed. Also, note that many pocket watches vary slightly in construction. The U.S. military released specific watch repair manuals for timepieces used during the time period.

Initial Visual Inspection

The first step in watch repair is to do a visual inspection of your watch components. The goal is to gather as much information as you can before you begin the disassembly process.

First, examine what you can without removing the caseback. Does the case or crystal appear dented or damaged? Are the hinges in working order? Is the dial legible, and are the hands parallel with the dial and moving smoothly?

Finally, when you wind the watch, is there eventually a bit of resistance as the watch winds up? There are numerous guides that exist for watch diagnostics, though we will be focusing on the disassembly process. 

Removing the Caseback 

In order to examine the interior mechanism of a watch, you will need to open the caseback. There are multiple ways pocket watch case backs are designed to be removed.

Most have either a lip or hinge which you can open with either your fingernail or a case knife. Once the caseback is open, you are ready to examine the movement of the watch. 

Unwinding the Watch 

Be wary of laying the watch flat on its back at the point, as doing so may damage the hands or dial. The next step in repair is unwinding the watch. Attempting to perform repairs on a wound watch can damage the mechanism, and send the tiny pieces of machinery flying upon removal. 

If you have done the previous step, you should now be staring at the movement of your watch. You should eventually notice a tiny metal stopper near a gear which clicks every time a tooth passes over it.

Once you have found this piece, firmly hold the crown, and slowly wind the watch until the stopper pushes out. At this point, use a screwdriver to fully remove the stopper from the rest of the gears.

Gently begin to release the crown, and it should move in the opposite direction you wound it in. 

Slowly let it unwind. 

Removing the Hands and Dial 

In order to remove the hands of the watch, use your hands puller. The hands puller goes against the hand posts, removing them in a cork-like manner. The feet of the hands puller will gently touch the dial, but they are designed to not damage it.

Once the hands have been removed, the dial can be taken off. The dial is attached by small screws on the side of the movement. Remove those, and you can remove the dial. It should come off without force, as forcefully removing the dial can easily damage it. 

Under the Dial 

In the center of the dial, you should see a small gear, which may have a tiny ring on top of it. This is the “hour wheel” and can be removed with simple tweezers. The center post can also be removed, by gently sliding it out with a set of tweezers, though you may want to leave it in place. 

At this point, turn the watch over to work on the movement side, though be careful if the center post has been left intact.

Removing the Bridges 

Your next step is going to be to remove the barrel bridge and train bridge. The barrel bridge may have small wheels on top of it: If so, remove them.

Either way, remove the screws holding the bridges in place, making note of the length of the screws and which hole they came from. It is important if the screws differ in length that they go in the hole they were removed from. 

Under the barrel bridge, you will notice two small gears. These wind the watch and will fall out if the center post referred to earlier is removed. Because they are difficult to put back, we recommend not removing them unless needed.

Balance Wheel 

At the center of your watch is the balance wheel, held in place by the balance cock. Loosen any screws holding these in, then remove the whole segment, keeping them together with tweezers. 

Palette Fork and Bridge 

The last part to remove resides under the balance wheel and resembles a “T.” It is under an additional bridge. Remove any screws holding the bridge down, then remove both bridge and fork, keeping track of how both were oriented. 

Things To Watch Out For 

At this point, you have disassembled your first pocket watch. You may now clean and oil parts as needed or mend or replace visibly damaged parts. To reassemble, place the parts in the watch movement in the inverse order that you removed them, taking care to replace them exactly as you placed them.

A secret: Now that you’ve prepared for one watch, you can move on to working on any mechanical or automatic watch you feel comfortable with. You’ve successfully troubleshot one watch.

On to the next one!

Sources:

How to Clean and Oil a Watch: A Beginner's Guide I The Watch Guy

Pocket Watch Repair: How To Fix a Broken Watch I Pocket Watch Database

Wrist watches, pocket watches... I War Department

There are few accessories as iconic or as storied as the wristwatch. Whether worn in the heat of battle, at the coolness of an elegant gala, or during any exciting activity that fits between the two, few pieces remain as versatile and universal as the watch.

Below, we have gathered just a few reasons why wearing a watch is essential.

1: They’re Stylish

We decided to start this list with the most obvious reason. Watches, throughout their history, have always been associated with class and sophistication. Whether worn peeking out under a suit and shirtsleeves or proudly displayed with athletic or casual wear, a watch makes a statement on the values of the wearer.

Whether you want an understated watch that speaks to a formal sensibility, or one that boldly hints towards an adventurous nature, there are plenty of case and band styles, the latter often interchangeable to a degree, to express yourself in exactly the way you desire.

With nearly a century of contemporary usage under their belt, watches have gone through enough stylistic changes that anyone can find one that suits their personal taste and wardrobe. 

Whether you want a contemporary or vintage watch, or one that is either simple or packed with additional features, the perfect balance of form and function exists for everyone.

The latter of these segues perfectly into our second reason:

2: They’re Functional

While many may list “style” as the first quality of watches, the fact remains that the accessory developed out of a very real need to read the time accurately.

Many watches now have additional features, called complications, such as a stopwatch or a tachymeter which can be used to measure speed over time. Other watches, such as pilots watches or divers watches, may have built-in complications and design choices used to fit their usual operating parameters.

Some occupations and recreational habits demand specialized watches. Are dress watches mandatory to allow you to function at high-elegance affairs? No, but they certainly help you leave the impression you want.

Sport watches, on the other hand, combine style and function for those who need them the most. These watches tend to be tested at higher levels of water resistance than their regular counterparts.

Divers watches, for instance, have additional features improving the functionality, legibility, and durability of the piece underwater. Some pilots watches have a specialized crystal to ensure functionality at varying altitudes. 

3: You’re a History Buff 

It’s no secret that watches come backed by a rich legacy. The original portable watches appeared in the late 15th century and were worn around the belt or neck. These contraptions were highly inaccurate and could not measure minutes or seconds until a few centuries later. 

Even once the issue of size and accuracy was addressed, the pocket watch was the norm for men. Wristwatches did exist but were only used as a women’s fashion accessory. Men’s wristwatches came into use initially for functional reasons rather than fashionable ones. 

Improvised wristwatches first appeared during the Boer War, made by tying pocket watch cases to the wrist with a bit of string, and mass-produced men’s watches were common for soldiers during World War I.

These watches differed most strongly from their modern counterparts in two unique ways: Firstly, these watches often featured protective coverings which would hide most of the watch crystal, increasing protection while reducing legibility. Secondly, the watches used had their dials painted with radium in order to increase luminosity. 

These early mechanical watches were built for function rather than style, though soon after, wristwatches would enter vogue as a fashionable, radiation-free accessory for men and women alike. When you wear a wristwatch, you evoke a history as complex as the craft of watchmaking itself.

4: You Love Quality Craftsmanship 

From the beginning, watches have been appreciated for the intricate machinery allowing them to function. Even quartz watches, which feature less complex electrical mechanisms, still maintain their visual appeal.

Craftsmanship, however, is where mechanical and automatic watches shine their brightest. Though contemporary quartz watches may be slightly more accurate than their predecessors, they lack the complex interior of their counterparts. 

Unlike quartz watches, which use batteries, mechanical and automatic watches both use a complex system of gears and springs in order to function. They may feature partially clear cases or casebacks to showcase this element of their design.

That internal craftsmanship is a major part of why horologists and watch connoisseurs are drawn to these types of watches. The components of mechanical watches are small and complex enough that special tools are needed to create and repair them.

Few accessories require such attention to detail. By investing in a handcrafted watch, you reject fast fashion in favor of a bespoke tradition that values high-quality accessories that are made to last.

5: You Adore Simplicity 

The strength of a watch comes from the power it grants, despite taking up a small amount of real estate on your wrist. Regardless of how simple or complex your outfit or wrist gear actually is, the simple act of wearing a watch adds an eye-catching accent to any outfit.

It adds an understated elegance with a suit and tie, and a watch can also add a dash of sophistication to an otherwise casual outfit. Wearing a watch also allows you to check the time in places where having your phone out would otherwise be inappropriate, such as a theater. 

6: You Want To Leave a Legacy

Unlike other accessories or articles of clothing, a watch is not just something to wear on your wrist. A watch is an investment. If properly cared for, your new watch can last for generations and turn into a treasured antique to be bequeathed to a child or loved one, or make a sentimental gift to mark an important milestone.

Antique watches gain their allure and reputation by both their age and condition, but only by maintaining a watch and continuing to pass it on across generations can it become an heirloom. What’s more, a prized watch can be engraved with important initials or a special date to add a concrete bit of family history onto your wearable.

The piece becomes more than the sum of its parts when it is imbued with the sentimentality and connection that only history can provide.

7: You Want To Be Less Dependent on Your Phone 

Technology has, for better or worse, infiltrated every aspect of our life. Computers now live on our desks, in our phones, in our cars, and on our wrists. Many now use phones for the primary reason watches first became crucial: To check the time.

Regardless of how the prevalence of smartphones has improved one’s life, some may want to reduce their screen time or otherwise be less reliant on a phone for daily activities. Extensive phone usage can impact happiness and stress negatively. In particular, anxiety around phone protection may drag one down when engaged in physical or water-based activities.

Wearing a watch provides a more stylish way to check the time while ensuring you only need to use your phone for the activities you perceive as necessary. 

8: You Want To Stand Out

Just like a well-polished pair of shoes or a perfectly matching tie, a watch in any context is an eye-catcher. Because a good watch is an investment, wearing one shows that you take pride in your appearance without appearing vain.

What’s more, with less than a third of people wearing watches on a daily basis, a piece of wrist jewelry helps you stand out as someone fashion-conscious in an increasingly savvy world. A watch also sends the message that you value your time enough to want to keep that information available at a glance.

9: You Want To Tell The Time 

This final reason for wearing a watch is a deceptively simple one: Watches tell time.

Analog watches, in particular, tell the time in a way that is quickly becoming lost to us. Partially because of the strong visual element associated with the dial of a watch, the notion of time passing viewed in analog gains a significance that digital simply cannot create.

In a digital clock, the minutes tick on with the simple changing of a number, without creating a visible sense of progress. In an analog clock, the appearance of the second, minute, and hour hands making a circular motion gives weight to the time in the day.

It serves as a reminder not only to be productive with the time we have but that we have the remarkable power to lose ourselves in time for a while: try not to be worried about the pressing demands from our work, phone, and social media.

A Life Style

A watch, in summation, offers luxury, beauty, and legacy, and all that it asks in return is that we occasionally check the time and allow ourselves a moment for time to go unchecked.

Sources: 

A Brief History of the Wristwatch I The Atlantic

The Stress of Constantly Checking Your Phone I Verywell Mind

Radium girls: The dark times of radioactive paint | CNN

The origin of clocks and watches, as we recognize them today, first emerged in the late 15th century. However, measuring time has always been important. The previously-mentioned date only accounts for the last 600 years of history, which begs the question: How did people tell time before clocks?

First, to clear a misconception: All timepieces listed below can be considered clocks, as they all share two common factors with modern clocks. 

1. They use a constant motion to mark off units of time.
2. They feature a means of tracking said motion and displaying the time.

We will be covering the history of timekeeping up to the invention of a portable mechanical clock with a dial able to display hours, minutes, and seconds.

Sundials 

The earliest known timekeeping devices appeared in Egypt and Mesopotamia, around 3500 BCE. Sundials consisted of a tall vertical or diagonal-standing object used to measure the time, called a gnomon. Sundials were able to measure time (with relative accuracy) by the shadow caused by the gnomon.

The earliest wholly verified appearance of a sundial is the Egyptian shadow clock, circa 1500 BCE. This clock used the passage of the sun overhead to help people decipher the time. It featured a crosspiece placed to the east of the gnomon, with markings set to delineate the hours.

Noon occurred at midday, and it would be at this time that the crosspiece would be moved to the west of the gnomon. The days would be divided into 12 hours (which we will discuss later). 

At night, a tool called a merkhet would be used. The merkhet consisted of two bars placed in alignment with the pole star. It used the pole star's position to track the relative movement of the stars and constellations. 

Naturally, sundials had some flaws in their construction. However, we can view mankind’s ability to start documenting parts of the day with a timepiece as a massive technological leap. The most glaring fault is that of accuracy: 

The length of daylight hours varies throughout the seasons, and for this reason, the measurement and value of an hourly “unit” varies as well. Furthermore, daylight hours vary based on region, location, and even city.

Because of this, universal time did not exist and would not for millennia later. The varying hours were called “seasonal hours.” They would be used by the Greeks and the Romans, who would spread the timekeeping method across the world.

The use of the astrological clock in tandem with shadow clocks allowed the development of Egypt’s year. This calendar consisted of 12 30-day periods based on the lunar cycle, followed by a 5-day period to accurately represent the yearly changing seasons.

In Egypt and other countries closer to the equator, the lunar cycle is more essential to timekeeping than the solar cycle because of their temperate climates. For them, the passage of the moon is more perceptible than the changing of the seasons. 

Improvements on the Sundial 

Later groups would improve upon the concept of shadow clocks, in particular the Greeks and
Romans. One version of the sundial features an obelisk in the center of a hemispherical bowl, with markings delineating days, months, and seasons.

Records of a supposedly universal sundial exist from the 1st century BCE, but the design of the sundial itself has not survived. Soon, however, a true universal sundial would appear.

The greatest improvement upon the sundial came in 1371. The most accurate sundial times occur where the trajectory of the sun is most constant: Along Earth’s axis and around the equator.

Ibn al-Shatir proved that placing the gnomon of a sundial parallel to Earth’s axis creates shadows with equal hours each day of the year. This discovery soon became common practice in construction and created the iconic “diagonal” appearance of modern sundials. 

Water Clocks 

The next clock mentioned has the distinguishing mark of being both the first-timer as well as the first clock verifiably used in a court of law. “Water clock” refers to a large number of clocks using water as a measuring device. There are two general types of water clocks: Intake and outtake.

• Intake water clocks feature a central device that slowly takes on water from a basin or other reservoir it is placed in.

• Outtake water clocks feature water slowly draining from an object, either directly into a reservoir or into a water wheel where the water powers the movement of the clock.

Either way, water clocks have the benefit of being usable both at night and on cloudy days, as well as being able to more closely measure actual hours, as opposed to seasonal hours. 

In historical context, water clocks were used judicially when measuring the length of time one was allowed to speak, as well as to measure time at night. The measurement markings would be read based on the water level.

Regardless of their conceptual strength, water clocks still had their flaws:

For one, freezing weather rendered water clocks useless. Secondly, water pressure was variable. Unfortunately, as the water levels in outtake machines dropped, so did the rate at which water flowed from the machine. Still, water clocks remained a useful and popular horological tool well into the advent of the mechanical clock.

Hourglasses

When discussing pre-modern timepieces, the hourglass may be the one to most immediately come to mind. However, hourglasses are fairly new compared to the other timepieces on this list, having only appeared in records starting in the 1300s.

Hourglasses were not designed to create a new level of accuracy but served a far more practical purpose:

They could reliably separate periods of time. They were also cheaper and simpler to maintain than a sundial, water clock, or, later on, mechanical clock. For this reason, hourglasses were especially popular on naval vessels.

On boats, hourglasses remained dry and steady; they would be unaffected by the rocking of the ship and inclement weather. These factors would normally alter the efficacy of other timekeeping methods. With the rise of the mechanical clock, hourglasses soon fell out of favor as other, more precise methods came into vogue.

However, the hourglass as a symbol of time and mortality endures, no doubt due to the image of sand slowly running out.

The Church Belltowers

The first mechanical clocks appeared in 1283 in Bedfordshire, England. These clocks were designed for the Roman Catholic Church, which had both the financial sway to undertake such projects, as well as the need for precise temporal measurements for prayer.

The clocks were weight-driven, and because these early examples often sounded out the time by the clanging of bells, the word “Clock” was adopted from the french clocca, meaning bell. 

Neither the weight of the machine nor the gear wheels were new. However, the escapement, which controlled the motion of the gears and transmitted that power to the oscillator, was one of the necessary inventions that allowed society to make the leap to modern mechanical clocks.

The Time Dilemma 

By the 14th century, there were numerous ways to measure a day. Many systems specified 24 hours for a day, but none of these agreed on when precisely a day begins. Some suggested sunrise, others sunset, others midday.

The system which eventually won out was the French “small clock” hours, which separated the day into two 12-hour periods that begin at midnight.

The Invention of Portable Watches and Onward 

Surprisingly, for such a historic invention, the creation of the portable mechanical watch is difficult to trace exactly. It is generally assumed that Peter Henlein first created the portable watches due to the popular demand for smaller clocks at home in the late 15th Century.

These watches replaced the heavyweight system of church bells with a spring-based system, providing power through slow uncoiling. These portable watches were largely inaccurate and would not feature minute or second hands until the 17th century. At that time, new developments by Tycho Brahe would allow for greater accuracy.

These early portable watches did feature one component that is notably absent from modern mechanical watches called the fusee. The fusee is a cone that serves to solve the issue created by the winding of the mainspring: Namely, that tension changes as it winds down. The fusee seeks to stabilize this changing tension but eventually became obsolete due to the bulk it added to watches. 

Now, you have received an introduction to the history of timekeeping up to the invention of the portable mechanical watch. Fortunately, Jack Mason also provides information on modern watchmaking techniques, from the pocket watch to modern automatic and quartz watches.

We have always needed to tell time. The only thing that’s changed is the way we endeavor to tell it.

Sources: 

Timekeeping: How Did People Tell Time Before Clocks? I Curiosity Guide

No. 1469: The Hourglass I Engines of Our Ingenuity

A Chronicle Of Timekeeping I Scientific American

Watchmakers have always sought to push the craft forward. A community of vocal and dedicated aficionados constantly pushes trends in different directions. Because style, whether based on watch movement or case size, is anything but uniform. 

In the early days of watch development, complications (the other activities a watch can perform besides timekeeping) were unheard of. In an era where watches were too large even for pockets and were only accurate enough to tell the hour, progress meant better accuracy and smaller size.

Jack Mason is here to explain the hefty beginnings of the watch and the reason why thin watches became and remain desirable today. 

What Makes a Watch Size?

There are many practical considerations and demands upon the size of a watch. While watch sizes are most often measured by the case size, the element which most impacts case size is that which the case protects: The movement. The movement powers the watch, and more complicated movements demand more complicated machinery.

Most ultra-thin watches, in pursuit of lightness, do away with extensive complications, returning to the root of the timepiece as a timekeeping device. 

The upper limit for a thin watch is fairly generous, with any watch under 8mm being considered thin. Generally, 8mm and below watches are “thin,” 8mm to 12mm watches are average, and anything above 12mm is thick. However, although 8mm watches are considered thin, watchmakers would go much further in pursuit of the world's thinnest watch.

A History: Early Thick Watches 

Ironically, the very developments that made portable watches possible also condemned them to be large, unwieldy accessories. This was due to the now-defunct fusee.

This invention was a large cone that attached to the mainspring and would serve to increase accuracy as the mainspring began to wind down. While the fusee was a groundbreaking development, it was eventually phased out due to a tendency to break, as well as the size it added to watches. 

Early Thin Watches 

The earliest development of thin watches came about in the 18th Century. Watchmaker Jean-Antoine Lépine, while experimenting and attempting to make pocket watches smaller, invented what would be considered the modern mechanical movement. Through much work, he was able to ditch the drum-shaped movement created by the fusee.

In 1903, a new pocket watch movement, the Caliber 145, was invented. This movement was an astonishing 1.38mm thick. While watchmakers would tinker and slowly whittle down the record for the thinnest watch, the next major event in the history of the movement came from Japan in 1969.

The Quartz Revolution 

1969 was the year that quartz movements were introduced to the world. Prior to quartz, all major watch movements were mechanical in nature. Though automatic watches existed, automatic movement is a subtype of mechanical movements. Quartz watches eschewed the delicate mechanical engineering in favor of something else: Electricity.

At their core, quartz watches are battery-powered watches. The quartz crystal which gives the watch its name vibrates precisely when electricity passes through it. This powers the entire movement with a fraction of the previously needed watch parts.

With the invention of quartz, the needed interior components were simplified heavily. 

The Battle for the Thinnest Watch 

With a new, slender movement, it was only a matter of time before companies competed for the thinnest watch. In contemporary sizing, a watch is considered thin if it is under 8mms in thickness.

In 1979, the Delirium was introduced. This watch melded the caseback with the bottom plate of the watch movement and measured only 1.98mm in thickness. The later Delirium IV measured only .98mm. The latter watch did not feature traditional hands and was thin enough that it could not be worn without bending it.

The war of the thin watches ended ironically with a watch too impractical to wear, inverting the problems plaguing them in their early history.

Benefits To Wearing a Thin Watch 

We have discussed a bit of the hubris of the industry. However, when crafted sensibly, there are numerous benefits to wearing a thin watch.

• Comfort: Thin watches are lightweight without looking cheap. For those with smaller wrists or who simply don’t want to feel the weight of their wristwear, a thin watch can be more comfortable than a bulky one of similar case size. 
  
  
• Minimalism: Many have a strong need for the additional complications offered by sport watches. If, however, you desire a simpler watch to wear on your wrist, thin watches by nature tend to have simple, aesthetically oriented designs.
  
  
• These designs are created to take advantage of every surface while remaining as distinctively slim as possible.
  
  
• Cost: Unless you are going for an ultra-thin watch, thin watches tend to be cheaper than their standard and oversized counterparts. There are a few reasons for this.
  
  Firstly, many thin watches are made from smaller quartz movements, which are cheaper to make than mechanical or automatic movements.
  
  Secondly, due to necessity, many thin watches lack other complications, making them simpler and easier to construct.  

• Style: In a market where big watches are markedly trendy and are often used as statement pieces, a thin, understated piece makes an equally powerful statement. A thin watch subverts the trend to create a daring statement.
  
  A thin watch stands for sleekness and sophistication. It says that the wearer believes the strongest statement does not have to carry the most physical weight.

Cons of Wearing a Thin Watch 

No matter the craftsmanship, no watch is universally excellent. Despite their benefits, thin watches do have a few downsides relative to their larger counterparts.

• Durability: In eliminating all unnecessary elements, some things must be sacrificed. Thin mechanical watch movements are sometimes assembled in a way that is unstable, prioritizing thinness over construction.
  
  Also, as previously stated in regards to the Delirium IV, some ultrathin watches are more prone to damage. Still, as long as proper care is taken, durability should not be a concern unless dealing with highly specialized thin watches.

• Simplicity: Many thin watches lack the complications or safety features demanded from a pilot or divers watch. Save the thin watch for where it can shine, and use more durable sports watches when the situation calls for them. 

How To Find Your Watch Thickness 

After reading this, you may want to check out a thin watch for yourself or measure the thickness of the watches in your existing collection. However, aside from the notably ultra-thin watches, pieces are usually not advertised by their thickness.

There are many ways to figure out the thickness of a watch when this information is not readily available, but these are a few of the simpler ways:

1. Check Yourself: If you have a watch physically in front of you, the simplest way to measure the thickness is to lay the case flat, then place a ruler perpendicular to the length of the case, being careful not to scratch it. The measurement should be read from the very top of the crystal.
   
   
2. Search Company Websites, and Analyze Case and Movement Size (Estimate): Note that this measurement will not always give you an exact thickness but will still help you figure out how it will fit on your wrist. Using the internet to find out more about your watch can be simple and easy. 
   
   For example, Jack Mason’s Ellum showcases a Miyota 1L45 movement, which a Google search shows has a thickness of 2.93mm. The watch also has a 40mm case size, which is on the smaller end average for cases, and suggests a potentially smaller than average thickness. 
   
   
3. Inquire Directly: Many companies have on their websites the ability to contact them directly. Jack Mason, for instance, allows its users to send inquiries regarding specific watch models, whether the question is about the thickness or any other attribute.
   
   A watch is an investment, so we encourage doing your research before finding the perfect fit for you. 

How To Know if Wearing a Thin Watch Is Right For You 

Ultimately, there are only two questions to ask when deciding whether or not you should wear a thin watch.

Firstly, can you physically wear it? Though there are guides that can lead you to your ideal watch size, generally, band and case size are bigger concerns than watch thickness.

The second question is simpler: Do you want to? Choosing a watch, at least where thickness is concerned, is not quite the same as choosing a shirt. Watches of nearly every thickness are available to you, but what matters most is what you feel happy and confident wearing.

Thin watches provide a sleek and slender piece of wristwear, part of a historic hunt for perfection in both form and function.

Whether you want an alternative to the bulky, complication-packed sports watches in your closet, or simply wish to express your appreciation of the simpler things in life, a thin watch makes a wonderful way to exhibit your personal style. 

Sources:

How to Choose a Watch for Your Wrist Size I The Trend Spotter 

History of Watchmaking I Haute Horlogerie

The Concord Delirium I American Time Magazine

Watches come in remarkably different sizes. Being able to properly measure your own watch can be a godsend, especially when examining vintage watches or evaluating what you aesthetically want from the next addition to your wrist. Style is not the only concern at hand: An improperly sized watch can cause discomfort and even nerve damage. Over the course of this article, we will show you how to easily measure any wristwatch you own in the comfort of your own home.

Why Measuring Your Watch Case is Essential 

When purchasing a shirt, you would do more than simply look at it before making your purchase. Why, then, should watches be examined under a lesser degree of scrutiny? At Jack Mason, we understand that even the smallest details matter. Every single measurement of a watch is interrelated, affecting the overall size and appearance of the piece, which creates a distinct mark on your outfit and impression. 

Oftentimes, companies will list the dimensions of their offerings online. In practice, the listed dimensions may not always be perfectly accurate, or some important measurements such as thickness may be omitted. For these reasons and more, it is highly important that you be able to take the measurements of your watch yourself.

Depending on how a watch was acquired and where it is from, accurate information on dimensions may not be available. In their early history, watches tended to be smaller, and many vintage watches have since undergone changes in design relating to size upon reissue. Furthermore, it is possible for the features or embellishments of a watch to obscure the true size of the case.

The most common factor at play is the bezel. A watch with a thick bezel but a comparatively small dial will appear to have a smaller case than a watch with more proportionate features. However, in reality, the bezel can significantly add to the diameter of a case, which then adds to the thickness of the overall piece. 

Watch Size and Style

It should be noted that watches do not demand as perfect a fit as, say, a pair of shoes. A wrist can fit a range of sizes, allowing you to choose what you wear to make a statement matching your personal style. This is not to say that your choice in size should not be deliberate. Generally, men’s sizes start at around 34mm, though women’s watches and many vintage watches may run smaller. Tool watches such as dive watches tend to have larger case sizes to accommodate their extra features.

Additionally, for both men and women, large watches are becoming more popular. A large watch case may look great on your wrist under many conditions, but too thick a watch may cause your shirt or suit sleeves to bulge uncomfortably. On the other hand, too tight a watch may pinch or damage your wrist. 

How To Measure Your Watch Case 

A caliper will be needed for the measurements below, with one exception. A ruler may work in a pinch, but a caliper, ideally a digital one, will be the best tool for giving you the precise measurements needed. All measurements will be listed in millimeters, as that is the most commonly used metric for sizing. We will be covering the following topics:

• How To Use Your Caliper
• Measuring the Case of a Watch
• How to Measure Lug Width
• How To Measure Lug-to-Lug
• Measuring Thickness

How To Use your Caliper 

Because using a caliper is slightly more complicated than using a ruler, we will be briefly explaining how to use it. If you already know how to use one, feel free to skip to the next section, “Measuring the Case.”

Due to their accuracy and ease of legibility, the following description assumes that a digital caliper is being used. A caliper consists of a beam and a movable plastic or metal attachment, which assists in taking measurements and reading the scale. On one side of the caliper is a set of exterior-facing jaws meant to take measurements such as length and diameter. On the other side is a set of interior-facing jaws, meant for taking inside measurements such as the distance between the lugs of a watch.

One half of each set of jaws is connected to the beam, and the other half is connected to the movable attachment. On the attachment is a thumbscrew, which adjusts the jaws of the caliper. There is also a lock screw, which holds the jaws in place. Digital calipers have additional features such as a battery compartment and an ABS button that resets the digital measurement to zero, as well as a button that switches the measurement between inches and millimeters.

To take an interior measurement, loosen the lock screw, place the exterior-facing jaws in the space you are measuring, and adjust until the upper jaws touch the wall of the hole. Then, tighten the lock screw. Remove when finished.

To take an exterior measurement, follow a similar pattern. Instead clamp the interior-facing jaws around the facet of the watch you are measuring. 

Measuring the Case of a Watch 

To measure the diameter of your watch, place the interior-facing jaws of the caliper on two opposite ends of the timepiece, making sure to measure across the center of the watch. Always be gentle, so you don’t scratch your timepiece. You should endeavor, if possible, to take your reading from the three o’clock to nine o’clock position. If your watch has a crown or other feature preventing an accurate measurement from these positions, you can elect instead to take your reading slightly offset from them, such as two o’clock to eight o’clock or four o’clock to ten o’clock.

For watches that are not perfectly round, you should attempt to take a measurement, still crossing the center of the watch, where the diameter will be the smallest. While this is an imperfect solution, it is the most accurate one to gauge how it will lay on your wrist. Once you have the calipers properly placed, you can take a reading in millimeters to find the case size. For the most proportionate look, try the following case sizes based on the size of your wrist:

• Six inches: On the smaller end. Try 34mm-38 mm cases.
• Seven inches: Medium-sized. 39mm-42mm cases will work best.
• Eight inches: For individuals with large wrists, cases between 44mm and 47mm will give the most proportionate appearance.

How To Measure Lug Width 

Knowing how to measure the width between lugs is as important as knowing how to measure the case itself, as the lug width directly impacts the width of the strap you need to fit your timepiece.

Place one exterior-facing caliper on each lug, and make sure that you are measuring from the inner side of the lug and not the outer. Only the inner lug measurement determines the ideal strap width.

How To Measure Lug-to-Lug Distance 

Not to be confused with the lug width, lug-to-lug distance refers to the distance between the lugs on the opposite sides of a watch. This measurement affects how a watch will lay across your wrist, which is essential information. With your caliper, use the interior-facing jaws to measure the distance between two parallel lugs on opposite sides of the watch. This measurement, taken with your wrist size, will let you know how comfortably it will sit on your wrist.

Measuring Thickness

Thickness is a less measured, though no less important dimension of a watch. All previous measurements and features we have alluded to, which is to say the bezel, case size, and lug width, have an impact on watch thickness. Generally, a larger case size means a thicker watch. For individuals with especially slender wrists, a thicker watch may cause discomfort when worn with proportionate dress clothes. However, larger watches often come with more special features than their smaller predecessors.

For example, the Jack Mason Solar Watch is made from recycled material, features solar-powered movement, and is tested for water resistance for up to 100 meters. Thickness is the one metric where simplicity works best: Lay your watch flat and gently push a ruler, standing up against it. Avoid using a caliper, as in order to measure with it, you would have to clamp the jaws onto the crystal itself. Watch thicknesses vary less than case sizes, with most being between seven and nine millimeters. 

After Measuring 

Whether you have now measured every watch in your collection, wanted to prepare for future endeavors, or were simply curious about the topics of this article, you are now one step closer to being in complete control of your wardrobe. A word of advice: Every rule has exceptions. 

While the measuring guide should be taken as written, you know your own body and style better than anyone. Suppose you have a smaller wrist but want to show off a watch with an impressive case, or have a larger wrist but enjoy the look and feel of a smaller, sleeker design. In that case, we at Jack Mason encourage you to follow your true self and carry an extensive selection of watches to help you find them.

Sources:

How To Measure A Watch Case Size Easily [GUIDE] | The Slender Wrist

Radial Nerve Dysfunction | MedlinePlus

Digital Calipers: Why You Need This Tool in Your Collection | Family Handy Man

The watch is the quintessential fashion item. Whether worn for purely functional purposes or used to elevate an outfit, the benefits of wearing a watch far outweigh the negligible-at-best downsides.

Whether one wants a refresher on how to wear their favorite accessory or gain an introduction to an article whose reputation for style and dignity precedes itself, Jack Mason is here to offer the ultimate guide on how to wear a watch.

Fundamentals

There are a few key elements that are absolutely essential to one's horological future. How do you properly wear a watch? How do you navigate the numerous types and movements?

And how do you figure out the proper watch size for your wrist?

How to Wear a Watch 

One of the key rules to be aware of when wearing a watch is knowing which hand to wear it on. Most people wear their watch on their left hand. We say “most” for a reason: the non-dominant hand is the proper one on which to wear a watch. By wearing a watch on your off hand, you extend its lifespan and protect it from getting scratched in any of the myriad activities or exertions we use our dominant hand for.

Matching Your Watch to Your Outfit 

Choosing when to wear your watch is just as important as where you wear it. True fashion etiquette has become less rigorously structured since the latter half of the 20th century, but there are still some axioms about wearing your watch that hold true. 

Firstly, if you elect to wear a leather strap while also wearing leather shoes, both types of leather should match. This becomes easier to manage if you can find a watch with quick-release pins, which allow you to easily change and customize your strap to fit your outfit.

Secondly, if you have multiple metallic accents on your outfit, such as your belt buckle, shoe buckle, or cufflinks, you should endeavor, if possible, to match your case or band to the other metals. 

Deciding Which Watch is Right for You 

Now that you have had an introduction to rules to keep in mind when wearing your watch, it is time to take active steps in choosing an ideal watch. We will now be introducing the two key facets affecting both the aesthetic and practical functions of watches: Movement and type. 

Movement refers to the mechanism powering the movable elements of a watch, whereas type refers to the overall functionality of a watch.

Watch Movements 

There are three key types of watch movements: Mechanical, automatic, and quartz. Of these, mechanical is the oldest, followed by automatic, with quartz movement first appearing a scant 52 years ago.

Mechanical watch movements are defined by intricate, precise machinery and exquisite craftsmanship. These watches are powered by hand-wound springs and take daily maintenance. They often have partially clear case backs to exhibit the delicate machinery, which makes them appreciated by connoisseurs.

Automatic watch movements are actually a subcategory of mechanical watches, called automatic for their self-winding motors. The movement relies on the motion of the wrist, and for this reason, automatic watches were not successful until the popularization of wristwatches in the early 20th century. A rotor inside the watch rotates with movement, thus generating the power for the watch.

Automatic watches can still be hand wound however, as if they are not worn for a lengthy period of time the stored kinetic energy will deplete, and the watch will cease to function until it is wound or rotated once more. Automatic watches boast a heftier weight and increased size due to necessity than their mechanical and quartz counterparts. Both automatic and mechanical watches feature a constantly moving second hand, creating a beautiful legato, sweeping motion that they are appreciated for.

Quartz watch movements do not rely on mechanical parts like the previously listed movements do. Instead, a battery sends carefully measured bursts of electricity to a quartz crystal, which vibrates in precise measurements. Quartz watches tend to be more accurate but generally lack the fine, consistent sweeping motion. Instead, they create a staccato “tick tick” movement.   

Watch Types 

In truth, there are enough watch types to merit an article dedicated solely to them. But, for a general guide, we are going to briefly cover a few of the most common types.

Dress watches feature elegant designs and are meant to be appropriate under all formal situations. Though dress watches can be worn with casual attire, it is important for a dress watch to be smaller so that it can fit under long-sleeved shirts without bulging or bunching.

Field watches were originally developed for combat use, and this shows in their modern design. Practical, legible, stylish, and rugged: field watches make for the perfect all-terrain watch, no matter the occasion. 

Closely related are pilot watches, simple timepieces that feature larger dials and hands for maximum legibility. They also often are built to be more shock and water-resistant than other watches. 

Racing watches come packed with a massive array of complications, including chronographs, and for this reason, they tend to be larger than other watches.

Diver’s watches were developed in tandem with modern scuba equipment and are built to be more water-resistant as well as highly legible. Cinephiles may enjoy knowing that James Bond, in his current incarnation, often wears diver’s watches.

Sizing Yourself for Your Watch 

By now, you have received general style tips and been given an introduction to both watch movements and types. Only one step remains before you go forth and accessorize confidently: Measuring your wrist in order to discover your ideal watch size.

There are two easy ways to measure the size of your wrist. The first is to wrap a tape measure around your wrist and take the measurement that way. If you do not have a tape measure handy, there is a simpler, albeit less precise method, to take your measurement. By wrapping a dollar bill, which is six inches long, around your wrist, you can estimate by the amount of coverage it gives you what your wrist size is. Following our guide, wrist sizing works roughly like this:  

• 6 inches: Cases around 34mm - 38mm. 
• 7 to 7.5 inches: Cases around 39mm, 40mm, and 42mm.
• 8 inches and larger: Cases between 44-46mm, or even 47mm.

Additionally, we recommend the following dimensions for band size:

• 6.0 - 6.5” wrist or 150 - 164mm = 120/70mm
• 6.6 - 7.0” wrist or 165 - 178mm = 125/75mm
• 7.1 - 7.5” wrist or 179 - 190mm = 130/80mm
• 7.6 - 8.0” wrist or 191 - 203mm = 135/80mm
• 8.1 - 8.5” wrist or 204 - 216mm = 140/85mm
• 8.6 - 9.0” wrist or 217 - 229mm = 145/90mm

Navigating Watch Hazards 

Even for the most cautious of individuals, life happens. For that reason, these next few sections will discuss the most deadly dangers your watch may face on a semi-regular basis. After this, you will be fully equipped to find a watch you love and to wear and take care of it to the best of your ability.

Magnetism

A disclaimer: Magnetism is primarily an issue with mechanical and automatic watch movements, as quartz watches have components protecting them from the effect of magnetism. Many objects in daily life are magnetic to a small degree: Cell phones, tablets, radios, and other tech. Magnetism in small doses should pose no issue to a watch.

However, sometimes when a watch is exposed to a high degree of magnetism, the internal machinery can become magnetized, which translates to seconds or minutes gained or lost every day. The fix in cases like this is fortunately simple: Either take your watch to a local watchmaker, or else you can purchase a demagnetizer online.

If you are unsure whether or not your watch has been magnetized, you can try holding it above a compass. If the needle of the compass moves as the watch approaches it, then your watch has been magnetized and needs readjusting.

Beware of Water 

Water can spell demise for any kind of watch. Aside from diver’s watches, timepieces are largely not designed for use in water, merely to survive being used in water. When purchasing a watch, the depth of water resistance is listed, usually measured in meters. The most common water testing depth is 100 meters, though divers watches can be tested much deeper. This does not mean you can be totally carefree at the pool, however.

The depth test measures the amount of water pressure the protective gasket of the watch can withstand, and abrupt changes in pressure such as those caused by jumping off a diving board into a pool repeatedly can strain the gasket and cause water to leak into the watch. Additionally, adjusting the crown or other components of the watch underwater may temporarily break the seal created by the gasket. Neither the electronic components of quartz watches nor the machine components found in mechanical and automatic watches are water-proof, but with proper caution, water should prove no issue for your timepiece. 

You should also be wary of your watch band: Leather and some metals may be damaged by water, so for this reason, we recommend keeping these bands far away from the beach or pool. If they do get wet, immediately wipe them off to minimize damage.

Keeping Time in Check

Ultimately, the best watch for you is one you feel comfortable and confident in. Watches can be dressed up or dressed down, and there’s a watch for every hobby, event, and lifestyle. 

With careful love and treatment, your watch should keep ticking as long as you do. 

Sources:

The Five Main Watch Types… | Wristworthy

Tom Ford Interview: The Rules to Wearing a Watch | British GQ

What to Do if Your Watch Is Magnetized  | NY Times