Journal

Some watches are made for wear in formal settings. Dress watches provide the necessary gravitas for business, parties, or other engagements but may lack the necessary strength for high-powered, specialized activities. Whether traversing land, sea, or the skies, the following sports watches have been made for high performance to meet the needs of any adventurer. 

On Land 

We begin this list by examining watches that go the distance in the circumstance most wear them on a daily basis: Dry land. A watch used on land doesn’t need to survive the deep-sea dives expected of dive or nautical watches, nor does it necessarily need to have the complications found in pilot’s watches. 

For Racers

This watch is made for the speed demons, whose hearts race with the engines of their cars along the open road. The Mirabeau Chronograph showcases that same watch complication originally used to measure horse races, making it a popular inclusion in any racing watch today. 

The unique color choices showcase subdials that perfectly match the dial and tri-colored subdials for an eye-catching pop of style. Like the sky-blue variant linked above, some versions come with a matching punched-leather band, which gives it a look and feel unique to the watch.

For Outdoorsmen 

For those who do their land journeying on foot rather than by car, the Overland Solar is a timepiece that sustains and even rewards its wearers for exposing themselves to the great outdoors. A variation on Jack Mason’s classic Solar Watch, the Overland Solar features a unique solar-powered movement charged through the perforated dial and a manual compass complication.

The solar movement, when fully charged, can last for six months at a time. The caseback, showcasing a compass and what, on closer inspection, reveals itself as a topographic map, makes this a perennial watch for any hiker or outdoorsman.

Another highlight of the Overland Solar is its manufacturing process: The case itself is cast recycled to reduce our waste. While this offering comes with a leather strap, the original Solar Watch comes with a velcro strap made from recycled ocean plastic.

10% of all profits from both solar offerings are donated to the Jan & Oscar Foundation, a humanitarian organization that supports groups worldwide, focused primarily on improving the lives of those in Thailand affected by the disaster. 

At Sea 

Water can be alternately beautiful, serene, treacherous, and awe-inspiring, a haven for all sorts of adventures. Unfortunately, there is nothing more dangerous for a watch than overexposure to water. Precious metals can rust, and if the gaskets which prevent water from getting into a watch fail, the piece can become flooded, permanently damaging the battery and mechanical pieces used to power it. 

No watch is truly waterproof. However, watches can be made to be highly water-resistant. Water-resistance testing refers to the amount of water pressure, which increases with depth, that a watch can safely withstand when sitting in static water. Because of the word “static,” the actual depth a watch can be used at is often less than the depth stated.

For example, watches with 30 meters or 3 ATM of water resistance are only splash resistant. Watches with 100 meters of water resistance are safe to swim with, and watches with a stated water resistance testing of 300 meters and above make for ideal diving tools.

For Swimming 

The Halyard GMT presents a refreshing, powerful nautical watch for those who spend more time over or on the waves than far beneath them. The Halyard line takes its name from a naval term, “haul the yards,” referring to a series of ropes. GMT naturally refers to Greenwich Mean Time due to a capability made possible through the bezel of the watch.

The watch’s bezel is made of anodized aluminum, through a process that makes it highly durable and incredibly corrosion-resistant. The bicolored blue-and red pattern symbolizes night and day, and the hour markings on the bidirectional bezel make it possible to set the time in multiple time zones at once. 

Visually, the Halyard GMT is an understated timepiece whose coloration appears all the more brilliant for the stark white dial, silver indices, and stainless steel metal bracelet it presents with. The caseback, in case there was any confusion about the purpose of the watch, showcases water testing at 100 meters and other core design elements. It reveals an anchor surrounded by a pattern of laurels and the waves of the ocean.

For Diving 

The Seatrek, deserving of its name, is designed in every aspect to evoke the beauty and match the power of the waves. Water-testing at 300 meters is complemented by a durable sapphire crystal, a case made of highly rust-resistant 316L stainless steel, and a screw-down crown. 

Legibility markings on the indices, as well as a unidirectional rotating bezel, make it perfect for timing the length of your next dive. A rubber strap, classic navy blue or bold orange depending on the model, makes for an effective and durable waterproof companion to the Seatrek.

The visual language of the watch is equally considered: One version of the Seatrek matches the orange rubber strap with an understated, eye-catching black dial. The other version showcases a uniquely colored seafoam green dial, whose appearance is only heightened by the navy rubber strap included with the watch.

In the Skies 

In the air, precise readings are the order of the day. Aviator watches showcase large cases to account for the complications necessitated by the nature of the watch, legible faces, and durable materials. These timepieces need to function even without the presence of natural light. 

During WW2, watches were manufactured with radium to provide a signature glow-in-the-dark appearance to the hands and dials, allowing flight missions to occur at night without cockpit lights giving away the position of airplanes.

Also desirable in a watch for the skies is chronograph functionality. The chronograph is a classic watch complication with a deeply nuanced set of uses. Some of the earliest chronographs, as mentioned before, were used to measure races. 

Their modern counterparts are known for the extremely high standard to which they are tested for accuracy. Stopwatch functionality, traditionally represented on subdials and a tachymeter scale used to measure speed across a set distance, gives these aviator watches the appearance they are well known for. 

Pilot’s Watches

One distinctive pilot’s watch is the Avigator. The Avigator takes its design, and even its name from the original men’s pilots watches. Though, thankfully, the radium has been replaced by subtle SuperLuminova luminosity markings. An impressive 45mm case size and multicolored subdials on select versions of it help to make the avigator a strong piece whose statement is as strong as its functionality. 

Another pilot’s watch to be on the lookout for in the Pursuit Chronograph. The three subdials, distinctively placed at the watch’s 6 o’clock, 9 o’clock, and 12 o’clock positions, make for a chronograph with classic function and eye-catching untraditional placement. A 42mm case and sunray dial are complemented by large indices and lettering that maintain legibility. 

Made for the Skies 

Craftsmanship, passion, and precision come together in the AOPA Pilot’s Chronograph. This timepiece, the result of a fruitful collaboration between Jack Mason and the Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association, has been designed with even the most intricate of details with pilots in mind.

The acrylic crystal which protects the dial was chosen for the way it responds to impacts and significant changes in air pressure. By integrating both SuperLuminova and Trigalight H3 markings, the chronograph maximizes legibility by showcasing numerous differently colored markings on the hands, indices, and subdials of the watch.

As far as complications are concerned, the watch reveals classic chronograph functionality as well as a rotating bezel. The piece as a whole is protected thanks to a specially designed, anti-magnetic movement guard ensuring the watch can be utilized unimpeded by the magnetism caused by the components of an airplane.

The visual appeal of the watch is designed to be equally as impressive. A black stainless steel case sets it apart from more traditionally-colored pieces, a design choice reflected in the monochromatic language of the face and caseback.

Mentioning the caseback, the outer edge of it highlights all the precise, pilot-requested design choices which went into the construction of the AOPA Pilot’s Chronograph. Also etched into the caseback are the AOPA logo and the Jack Mason name, proudly declaring the partnership which makes this entire project possible.

All-Terrain Watches 

A person who does it all needs a watch that does it all. With the exception of the Seatrek (water resistance tested at an impressive 300 meters), all of the watches listed above feature testing at 100 meters. They also have 316L stainless steel cases that resist the wear and tear an intensely active watch is exposed to.

These are pilot’s watches, racing watches, and nautical watches, but at their core, our watches are designed to be universal, all-terrain timepieces that remain competitive in any context.

Sources:

Radioactivity in Antiques | US EPA

Chronograph – Watch Functions, History and Types of Chronographs I History of Watch

Corrosion - an overview | Science Direct

The influence of barometric pressure on watch and chronometer rates | ResearchGate

From their inception in the 16th century up until the popularization of the wristwatch in the 20th Century, pocket watches were a staple of men’s fashion. What happened? Here, we’ll briefly discuss what gave pocket watches their staying power and explain why making a return to small pocket watches may be worth the investment.

Early History

Peter Henlein designed the first portable watches in the early sixteenth century, though here “portable” comes with a caveat: These early watches were large. So large, in fact, that they were intended to be worn on the neck like a pendant rather than carried in the pocket. Accuracy was also an issue: These early watches were not especially reliable, and as such, only told time to the hour. 

Subsequent developments would streamline the components of the watch, including the use of jewels and oil to reduce the stress put on the components of the watch. Watches and watch components became both smaller and more accurate.

With the coming of the Industrial Revolution and railway travel, the pocket watch became increasingly necessary in day-to-day living. In the context of their invention, pocket watches were traditionally attached using a chain made of some precious material to the wearer's vest or waistcoat, but contemporary usage also has seen them attached to the loops of a pair of pants.

Pocket watches trended smaller for the same reason men’s dress watches trend smaller than sports contemporaries. They are meant to provide a dash of allure as a practical accessory without rumpling the silhouette of the wearer.

Functionally, some pocket watches became known as “railroad watches” because, as alluded to before, they became so precise in their movements that conductors began using them, as certain watches superseded the accuracy of their onboard systems.

Types of Pocket Watches

Though wristwatches showcase a wider range of complications compared to their pocket-based counterparts, pocket watches have a wider range of construction methods. While wristwatches are typed based on the function they serve, pocket watch types are separated based on the design of the case itself. 

• Full Hunter: In this type of pocket watch, the face of the watch is protected by an attached outer case, which can often be released on one side by pushing in the crown. While this offers maximum protection, it also makes it time-consuming if one needs to regularly check the time.
  
  
• Half Hunter: Derived from the full hunter, the Half Hunter features an outer casing that provides a window from which the hands of the watch are visible, making it easy to check the time.
  
  
• Double Hunter: Like the hunter, this type of pocket watch features an outer casing protecting the face. However, the double hunter also features a back casing, which can be released to reveal the mechanical workings of the watch.
  
  When both front and back casings are removed, it is possible to leave the double hunter standing up, making it a perfectly serviceable desk clock.
  
  
• Double Half Hunter: This type of watch features the double-cased properties of the double hunter, as well as the legibility window of the half hunter.
  
  
• Open Face: This design choice has no covering. While this leaves the crystal of the watch exposed, it has the benefit of allowing easy reading of the time. The overwhelming majority of contemporary wristwatches showcase this kind of style. 

A Competitor Arises 

In the 20th century, a series of military conflicts would cause the wristwatch to become popularized and mass-produced, leading to it supplanting the pocket watch. The earliest military wristwatches were actually pocket watches modified to be strapped to the wrist. A bit of trivia: During World War I, some wristwatches with half hunter faces were designed to ensure the protection of the timepiece while still making it easy for soldiers to keep time.

After mass-production of wristwatches arose in response to wartime demand, they began to gather popular appeal as well. Wristwatches were convenient, and in several cases, they had the benefit of being more affordable than their pocket-based counterparts. 

Stylish and practical wristwatches are much more popular than pocket watches in today’s world. However, those who swear by the pocket watch are not entirely uncommon to come by for a variety of reasons.

Size Matters 

All sorts of things determine the size of a watch. Larger watches have more leeway in terms of the internal construction and assemblage of their pieces. This can mean larger sets of gears or wheels, or it can mean the existence of additional complications such as chronographs.

Thinner watches have less room for the watchmaker to maneuver, meaning that by necessity, a greater deal of precise, fine-tuned design is required to keep the watch functional. 

Do pocket watches differ in size compared to their wrist-based counterparts? Examining a list of typical pocket watch sizes with the measurement taken from the movement reveals an interesting trend.

While the upper limit doesn’t radically exceed what’s normally seen in a wristwatch (56mm, whereas the upper limit for common men’s wristwatches is in the upper 40s), the lowest limit is a strikingly small 20.32mm. Common sizes for men start at 38mm. However, many dress watches, which may be the first thing that comes to mind when picturing a pocket watch, run smaller than that.

Advantages of a Small Pocket Watch: Function 

Much can be said about the benefits of a small pocket watch that would be true of any pocket watch. Nay-sayers may call the trend dated, but every powerful statement, whether it be fashion-related or otherwise, will have contrarians to speak against it.  

Here is a list of pocket watches’ functional appeal: 

• Pocket Watches Maintain Value: While sentimental and historical value may trump financial when leaving something behind, the fact remains that well-cared-for watches are commonly a high-ticket item at specialized auctions. This makes an heirloom potentially as economically valuable as it is emotionally. 
  
  
• You Value Classic Movements: Quartz, mechanical, and automatic movements are all popular for various reasons, but only the latter two showcase the delicate machinery which has helped maintain the popularity of watches for connoisseurs. Pocket watches, antique ones, in particular, rely more on these movements to provide the value of intricate clockwork.
  
  
• Distinction: A watch isn’t like a shirt; unless you happen to be a serious collector, it’s doubtful you have dozens of watches to be changed out on a whim. A watch should set itself apart from other watches and set you apart from other watch-wearers.
  
  What better way to do that than buck the trend of what everyone else is wearing and go with a classic timepiece that’s sure to cause a conversation or two?
  
  
• Versatility: Because the pocket watch features three components: The watch, the chain, and an optional decorative fob, there are plenty of ways you can wear it. You can go a traditional manner and keep it attached to a vest button while leaving the watch protected in your pocket, or you can take inspiration from James Dean and let a small timepiece dangle from a loop in your pants.

Advantages of a Small Pocket Watch: Aesthetics 

Here is a list of pocket watches’ aesthetic appeal: 

• Engage with Vintage Fashion: It’s fairly easy to find a low-cost, gorgeous antique pocket watch. Because pocket watches were traditionally hand-made and built to last as a legacy piece, it’s no hassle to locate older, used watches via online retailers or private sellers.
  
  You can even find local antique sellers with at least a few timepieces in stock. Purchasing a watch either in person or from a reputable dealer is the best way to make sure your antique timepiece is everything you want it to be.

• Craftsmanship: On a functional level, watches tell time and perform any other number of tasks. But the aspect which gave them their reputation as a status symbol and as a fashion icon is the precision craftsmanship that goes into them.
  
  A pocket watch is the result of attention to detail in both manufacturing and, for antiques, maintenance. A small watch, in particular, is a mark of highly detailed effort on the part of the watchmaker, requiring smaller gears and efficient use of every square millimeter of space the watch has to offer.

• Legacy: A watch can last a lifetime, but a well-made watch should last several. A pocket watch can make a touching heirloom to pass on. You can decorate the case of the watch, depending on the type, with a photograph inset on the interior of the case or an initial engraving on the exterior. This allows for a vintage pocket watch a beautiful embellishment with real, sentimental value.

The Final Reason For Wearing a Small Pocket Watch 

Why do anything? The answer is, of course: Because you want to. You’re wearing the watch, not vice versa, and for that reason, you choose to wear one that best represents you. A pocket watch is distinctive. A pocket watch is classy. A pocket watch harkens to the highest ideals of elegance and traditionalism while presenting a maverick. 

Sources:

James Dean's Pocket Watch Up for Auction I Business Insider

Peter Henlein and “The Immortal Heart” | Deutsches Uhrenmuseum 

Watch Sizes Guide | RealMenRealStyle

Mechanical watches come spring-loaded with history, so it is no surprise that many connoisseurs gravitate towards the precise engineering which keeps mechanical watches popular today.

For the specialist or antiquarian, pocket watches in particular hold a unique appeal. After studying and collecting enough watches, one might begin to wonder: What if I began to know my watch inside and out?

In the following guide, Jack Mason will explain to the inquisitive horologist how to disassemble your own pocket watch so that it may undergo repair.

Tools You Need Before You Begin 

Below is an exhaustive list of tools needed before undergoing any at-home watch repair. In addition to these, a flat, clean surface on which to do your work is also needed, to keep the watch components both clean and protected during what is a very delicate procedure. 

Essential Tools 

• Watchmakers screwdriver set: If nothing else, buy a watchmakers screwdriver set, and be sure to purchase one specifically made for watches, as opposed to an eyeglass repair kit.
  
  Without a set of screwdrivers precision-made for watch repair, one risks scratching or damaging the screws or other internal mechanisms, which in turn affects the value, appearance, and in extreme cases, functionality of the piece.

• Parts tray: Specialized parts trays for watch components exist, though in a pinch, an inexpensive tackle box or segmented, solid pencil case may work as well.
  
  The important thing is to not place the parts directly on the table you are working on, as this puts the parts at risk of loss if they accidentally get knocked over or roll away.

• Tweezers: A simple set of tweezers are used to remove parts and then set them in place once more. Any pair will do in a pinch, though watchmaking tweezers do exist.
  
  
• Hands Puller/Pusher: These tools exist to remove the hands of a watch without damaging the dial and then place the hands back on when maintenance has been completed. 
  
  
• Loupe: This eyepiece is a small magnifying glass used by jewelers and watchmakers to examine small things, such as the machinery in watches. 

Optional Tools 

• Oil and oiler: To keep the watch and parts lubricated, special oil is needed. The oiler is a thin piece of wire either dipped in the oil, which is then applied to the parts, or else designed to administer a single drop of oil whenever contact is made with a part.
  
  
• Cleaning Supplies: For those truly serious about entering the world of pocket watch repair, investing in a parts cleaner and fluid is essential. It should be noted that the cleaning supplies run more expensive than the other parts on this list and can be dangerous if improperly used.
  
  The solvents in question were not designed for casual in-home use. As such, if you elect to use them, you must be sure to protect yourself from breathing in fumes, work in a well-ventilated space, and avoid any direct contact with the materials.

• Blower: The blower is a tool that pushes air onto watch parts, helping them to dry more readily. The blower does not push spit, which may be contained in small parts when you physically blow on parts.
  
  
• Watch paper: This last tool is the easiest to create an at-home replacement for. Watch paper is used to place drying parts, though any lint-less, absorbent paper would make a good substitute.

A Warning 

Watches are delicate machinery. In the next section, we will be explaining both common watch problems, as well as how to repair them. We do not advise you to attempt repairing an antique pocket watch if this is your first try at repair. We also ask you to consider the level of risk you are accepting when you attempt to repair any watch without the direct assistance of a professional watchmaker.

You will most likely cause a small amount of damage to the first pocket watch you repair. This is part of the learning process. We also repeat that if you want to use cleaning fluids, you must show the utmost caution and not expose yourself, children, or pets to the fumes accidentally.

Also: It will be helpful to consult movement diagrams during the process, to take photos of your own piece, as well as to make a note, when making in-depth repairs, of the order in which components are removed. Also, note that many pocket watches vary slightly in construction. The U.S. military released specific watch repair manuals for timepieces used during the time period.

Initial Visual Inspection

The first step in watch repair is to do a visual inspection of your watch components. The goal is to gather as much information as you can before you begin the disassembly process.

First, examine what you can without removing the caseback. Does the case or crystal appear dented or damaged? Are the hinges in working order? Is the dial legible, and are the hands parallel with the dial and moving smoothly?

Finally, when you wind the watch, is there eventually a bit of resistance as the watch winds up? There are numerous guides that exist for watch diagnostics, though we will be focusing on the disassembly process. 

Removing the Caseback 

In order to examine the interior mechanism of a watch, you will need to open the caseback. There are multiple ways pocket watch case backs are designed to be removed.

Most have either a lip or hinge which you can open with either your fingernail or a case knife. Once the caseback is open, you are ready to examine the movement of the watch. 

Unwinding the Watch 

Be wary of laying the watch flat on its back at the point, as doing so may damage the hands or dial. The next step in repair is unwinding the watch. Attempting to perform repairs on a wound watch can damage the mechanism, and send the tiny pieces of machinery flying upon removal. 

If you have done the previous step, you should now be staring at the movement of your watch. You should eventually notice a tiny metal stopper near a gear which clicks every time a tooth passes over it.

Once you have found this piece, firmly hold the crown, and slowly wind the watch until the stopper pushes out. At this point, use a screwdriver to fully remove the stopper from the rest of the gears.

Gently begin to release the crown, and it should move in the opposite direction you wound it in. 

Slowly let it unwind. 

Removing the Hands and Dial 

In order to remove the hands of the watch, use your hands puller. The hands puller goes against the hand posts, removing them in a cork-like manner. The feet of the hands puller will gently touch the dial, but they are designed to not damage it.

Once the hands have been removed, the dial can be taken off. The dial is attached by small screws on the side of the movement. Remove those, and you can remove the dial. It should come off without force, as forcefully removing the dial can easily damage it. 

Under the Dial 

In the center of the dial, you should see a small gear, which may have a tiny ring on top of it. This is the “hour wheel” and can be removed with simple tweezers. The center post can also be removed, by gently sliding it out with a set of tweezers, though you may want to leave it in place. 

At this point, turn the watch over to work on the movement side, though be careful if the center post has been left intact.

Removing the Bridges 

Your next step is going to be to remove the barrel bridge and train bridge. The barrel bridge may have small wheels on top of it: If so, remove them.

Either way, remove the screws holding the bridges in place, making note of the length of the screws and which hole they came from. It is important if the screws differ in length that they go in the hole they were removed from. 

Under the barrel bridge, you will notice two small gears. These wind the watch and will fall out if the center post referred to earlier is removed. Because they are difficult to put back, we recommend not removing them unless needed.

Balance Wheel 

At the center of your watch is the balance wheel, held in place by the balance cock. Loosen any screws holding these in, then remove the whole segment, keeping them together with tweezers. 

Palette Fork and Bridge 

The last part to remove resides under the balance wheel and resembles a “T.” It is under an additional bridge. Remove any screws holding the bridge down, then remove both bridge and fork, keeping track of how both were oriented. 

Things To Watch Out For 

At this point, you have disassembled your first pocket watch. You may now clean and oil parts as needed or mend or replace visibly damaged parts. To reassemble, place the parts in the watch movement in the inverse order that you removed them, taking care to replace them exactly as you placed them.

A secret: Now that you’ve prepared for one watch, you can move on to working on any mechanical or automatic watch you feel comfortable with. You’ve successfully troubleshot one watch.

On to the next one!

Sources:

How to Clean and Oil a Watch: A Beginner's Guide I The Watch Guy

Pocket Watch Repair: How To Fix a Broken Watch I Pocket Watch Database

Wrist watches, pocket watches... I War Department

There are few accessories as iconic or as storied as the wristwatch. Whether worn in the heat of battle, at the coolness of an elegant gala, or during any exciting activity that fits between the two, few pieces remain as versatile and universal as the watch.

Below, we have gathered just a few reasons why wearing a watch is essential.

1: They’re Stylish

We decided to start this list with the most obvious reason. Watches, throughout their history, have always been associated with class and sophistication. Whether worn peeking out under a suit and shirtsleeves or proudly displayed with athletic or casual wear, a watch makes a statement on the values of the wearer.

Whether you want an understated watch that speaks to a formal sensibility, or one that boldly hints towards an adventurous nature, there are plenty of case and band styles, the latter often interchangeable to a degree, to express yourself in exactly the way you desire.

With nearly a century of contemporary usage under their belt, watches have gone through enough stylistic changes that anyone can find one that suits their personal taste and wardrobe. 

Whether you want a contemporary or vintage watch, or one that is either simple or packed with additional features, the perfect balance of form and function exists for everyone.

The latter of these segues perfectly into our second reason:

2: They’re Functional

While many may list “style” as the first quality of watches, the fact remains that the accessory developed out of a very real need to read the time accurately.

Many watches now have additional features, called complications, such as a stopwatch or a tachymeter which can be used to measure speed over time. Other watches, such as pilots watches or divers watches, may have built-in complications and design choices used to fit their usual operating parameters.

Some occupations and recreational habits demand specialized watches. Are dress watches mandatory to allow you to function at high-elegance affairs? No, but they certainly help you leave the impression you want.

Sport watches, on the other hand, combine style and function for those who need them the most. These watches tend to be tested at higher levels of water resistance than their regular counterparts.

Divers watches, for instance, have additional features improving the functionality, legibility, and durability of the piece underwater. Some pilots watches have a specialized crystal to ensure functionality at varying altitudes. 

3: You’re a History Buff 

It’s no secret that watches come backed by a rich legacy. The original portable watches appeared in the late 15th century and were worn around the belt or neck. These contraptions were highly inaccurate and could not measure minutes or seconds until a few centuries later. 

Even once the issue of size and accuracy was addressed, the pocket watch was the norm for men. Wristwatches did exist but were only used as a women’s fashion accessory. Men’s wristwatches came into use initially for functional reasons rather than fashionable ones. 

Improvised wristwatches first appeared during the Boer War, made by tying pocket watch cases to the wrist with a bit of string, and mass-produced men’s watches were common for soldiers during World War I.

These watches differed most strongly from their modern counterparts in two unique ways: Firstly, these watches often featured protective coverings which would hide most of the watch crystal, increasing protection while reducing legibility. Secondly, the watches used had their dials painted with radium in order to increase luminosity. 

These early mechanical watches were built for function rather than style, though soon after, wristwatches would enter vogue as a fashionable, radiation-free accessory for men and women alike. When you wear a wristwatch, you evoke a history as complex as the craft of watchmaking itself.

4: You Love Quality Craftsmanship 

From the beginning, watches have been appreciated for the intricate machinery allowing them to function. Even quartz watches, which feature less complex electrical mechanisms, still maintain their visual appeal.

Craftsmanship, however, is where mechanical and automatic watches shine their brightest. Though contemporary quartz watches may be slightly more accurate than their predecessors, they lack the complex interior of their counterparts. 

Unlike quartz watches, which use batteries, mechanical and automatic watches both use a complex system of gears and springs in order to function. They may feature partially clear cases or casebacks to showcase this element of their design.

That internal craftsmanship is a major part of why horologists and watch connoisseurs are drawn to these types of watches. The components of mechanical watches are small and complex enough that special tools are needed to create and repair them.

Few accessories require such attention to detail. By investing in a handcrafted watch, you reject fast fashion in favor of a bespoke tradition that values high-quality accessories that are made to last.

5: You Adore Simplicity 

The strength of a watch comes from the power it grants, despite taking up a small amount of real estate on your wrist. Regardless of how simple or complex your outfit or wrist gear actually is, the simple act of wearing a watch adds an eye-catching accent to any outfit.

It adds an understated elegance with a suit and tie, and a watch can also add a dash of sophistication to an otherwise casual outfit. Wearing a watch also allows you to check the time in places where having your phone out would otherwise be inappropriate, such as a theater. 

6: You Want To Leave a Legacy

Unlike other accessories or articles of clothing, a watch is not just something to wear on your wrist. A watch is an investment. If properly cared for, your new watch can last for generations and turn into a treasured antique to be bequeathed to a child or loved one, or make a sentimental gift to mark an important milestone.

Antique watches gain their allure and reputation by both their age and condition, but only by maintaining a watch and continuing to pass it on across generations can it become an heirloom. What’s more, a prized watch can be engraved with important initials or a special date to add a concrete bit of family history onto your wearable.

The piece becomes more than the sum of its parts when it is imbued with the sentimentality and connection that only history can provide.

7: You Want To Be Less Dependent on Your Phone 

Technology has, for better or worse, infiltrated every aspect of our life. Computers now live on our desks, in our phones, in our cars, and on our wrists. Many now use phones for the primary reason watches first became crucial: To check the time.

Regardless of how the prevalence of smartphones has improved one’s life, some may want to reduce their screen time or otherwise be less reliant on a phone for daily activities. Extensive phone usage can impact happiness and stress negatively. In particular, anxiety around phone protection may drag one down when engaged in physical or water-based activities.

Wearing a watch provides a more stylish way to check the time while ensuring you only need to use your phone for the activities you perceive as necessary. 

8: You Want To Stand Out

Just like a well-polished pair of shoes or a perfectly matching tie, a watch in any context is an eye-catcher. Because a good watch is an investment, wearing one shows that you take pride in your appearance without appearing vain.

What’s more, with less than a third of people wearing watches on a daily basis, a piece of wrist jewelry helps you stand out as someone fashion-conscious in an increasingly savvy world. A watch also sends the message that you value your time enough to want to keep that information available at a glance.

9: You Want To Tell The Time 

This final reason for wearing a watch is a deceptively simple one: Watches tell time.

Analog watches, in particular, tell the time in a way that is quickly becoming lost to us. Partially because of the strong visual element associated with the dial of a watch, the notion of time passing viewed in analog gains a significance that digital simply cannot create.

In a digital clock, the minutes tick on with the simple changing of a number, without creating a visible sense of progress. In an analog clock, the appearance of the second, minute, and hour hands making a circular motion gives weight to the time in the day.

It serves as a reminder not only to be productive with the time we have but that we have the remarkable power to lose ourselves in time for a while: try not to be worried about the pressing demands from our work, phone, and social media.

A Life Style

A watch, in summation, offers luxury, beauty, and legacy, and all that it asks in return is that we occasionally check the time and allow ourselves a moment for time to go unchecked.

Sources: 

A Brief History of the Wristwatch I The Atlantic

The Stress of Constantly Checking Your Phone I Verywell Mind

Radium girls: The dark times of radioactive paint | CNN

The origin of clocks and watches, as we recognize them today, first emerged in the late 15th century. However, measuring time has always been important. The previously-mentioned date only accounts for the last 600 years of history, which begs the question: How did people tell time before clocks?

First, to clear a misconception: All timepieces listed below can be considered clocks, as they all share two common factors with modern clocks. 

1. They use a constant motion to mark off units of time.
2. They feature a means of tracking said motion and displaying the time.

We will be covering the history of timekeeping up to the invention of a portable mechanical clock with a dial able to display hours, minutes, and seconds.

Sundials 

The earliest known timekeeping devices appeared in Egypt and Mesopotamia, around 3500 BCE. Sundials consisted of a tall vertical or diagonal-standing object used to measure the time, called a gnomon. Sundials were able to measure time (with relative accuracy) by the shadow caused by the gnomon.

The earliest wholly verified appearance of a sundial is the Egyptian shadow clock, circa 1500 BCE. This clock used the passage of the sun overhead to help people decipher the time. It featured a crosspiece placed to the east of the gnomon, with markings set to delineate the hours.

Noon occurred at midday, and it would be at this time that the crosspiece would be moved to the west of the gnomon. The days would be divided into 12 hours (which we will discuss later). 

At night, a tool called a merkhet would be used. The merkhet consisted of two bars placed in alignment with the pole star. It used the pole star's position to track the relative movement of the stars and constellations. 

Naturally, sundials had some flaws in their construction. However, we can view mankind’s ability to start documenting parts of the day with a timepiece as a massive technological leap. The most glaring fault is that of accuracy: 

The length of daylight hours varies throughout the seasons, and for this reason, the measurement and value of an hourly “unit” varies as well. Furthermore, daylight hours vary based on region, location, and even city.

Because of this, universal time did not exist and would not for millennia later. The varying hours were called “seasonal hours.” They would be used by the Greeks and the Romans, who would spread the timekeeping method across the world.

The use of the astrological clock in tandem with shadow clocks allowed the development of Egypt’s year. This calendar consisted of 12 30-day periods based on the lunar cycle, followed by a 5-day period to accurately represent the yearly changing seasons.

In Egypt and other countries closer to the equator, the lunar cycle is more essential to timekeeping than the solar cycle because of their temperate climates. For them, the passage of the moon is more perceptible than the changing of the seasons. 

Improvements on the Sundial 

Later groups would improve upon the concept of shadow clocks, in particular the Greeks and
Romans. One version of the sundial features an obelisk in the center of a hemispherical bowl, with markings delineating days, months, and seasons.

Records of a supposedly universal sundial exist from the 1st century BCE, but the design of the sundial itself has not survived. Soon, however, a true universal sundial would appear.

The greatest improvement upon the sundial came in 1371. The most accurate sundial times occur where the trajectory of the sun is most constant: Along Earth’s axis and around the equator.

Ibn al-Shatir proved that placing the gnomon of a sundial parallel to Earth’s axis creates shadows with equal hours each day of the year. This discovery soon became common practice in construction and created the iconic “diagonal” appearance of modern sundials. 

Water Clocks 

The next clock mentioned has the distinguishing mark of being both the first-timer as well as the first clock verifiably used in a court of law. “Water clock” refers to a large number of clocks using water as a measuring device. There are two general types of water clocks: Intake and outtake.

• Intake water clocks feature a central device that slowly takes on water from a basin or other reservoir it is placed in.

• Outtake water clocks feature water slowly draining from an object, either directly into a reservoir or into a water wheel where the water powers the movement of the clock.

Either way, water clocks have the benefit of being usable both at night and on cloudy days, as well as being able to more closely measure actual hours, as opposed to seasonal hours. 

In historical context, water clocks were used judicially when measuring the length of time one was allowed to speak, as well as to measure time at night. The measurement markings would be read based on the water level.

Regardless of their conceptual strength, water clocks still had their flaws:

For one, freezing weather rendered water clocks useless. Secondly, water pressure was variable. Unfortunately, as the water levels in outtake machines dropped, so did the rate at which water flowed from the machine. Still, water clocks remained a useful and popular horological tool well into the advent of the mechanical clock.

Hourglasses

When discussing pre-modern timepieces, the hourglass may be the one to most immediately come to mind. However, hourglasses are fairly new compared to the other timepieces on this list, having only appeared in records starting in the 1300s.

Hourglasses were not designed to create a new level of accuracy but served a far more practical purpose:

They could reliably separate periods of time. They were also cheaper and simpler to maintain than a sundial, water clock, or, later on, mechanical clock. For this reason, hourglasses were especially popular on naval vessels.

On boats, hourglasses remained dry and steady; they would be unaffected by the rocking of the ship and inclement weather. These factors would normally alter the efficacy of other timekeeping methods. With the rise of the mechanical clock, hourglasses soon fell out of favor as other, more precise methods came into vogue.

However, the hourglass as a symbol of time and mortality endures, no doubt due to the image of sand slowly running out.

The Church Belltowers

The first mechanical clocks appeared in 1283 in Bedfordshire, England. These clocks were designed for the Roman Catholic Church, which had both the financial sway to undertake such projects, as well as the need for precise temporal measurements for prayer.

The clocks were weight-driven, and because these early examples often sounded out the time by the clanging of bells, the word “Clock” was adopted from the french clocca, meaning bell. 

Neither the weight of the machine nor the gear wheels were new. However, the escapement, which controlled the motion of the gears and transmitted that power to the oscillator, was one of the necessary inventions that allowed society to make the leap to modern mechanical clocks.

The Time Dilemma 

By the 14th century, there were numerous ways to measure a day. Many systems specified 24 hours for a day, but none of these agreed on when precisely a day begins. Some suggested sunrise, others sunset, others midday.

The system which eventually won out was the French “small clock” hours, which separated the day into two 12-hour periods that begin at midnight.

The Invention of Portable Watches and Onward 

Surprisingly, for such a historic invention, the creation of the portable mechanical watch is difficult to trace exactly. It is generally assumed that Peter Henlein first created the portable watches due to the popular demand for smaller clocks at home in the late 15th Century.

These watches replaced the heavyweight system of church bells with a spring-based system, providing power through slow uncoiling. These portable watches were largely inaccurate and would not feature minute or second hands until the 17th century. At that time, new developments by Tycho Brahe would allow for greater accuracy.

These early portable watches did feature one component that is notably absent from modern mechanical watches called the fusee. The fusee is a cone that serves to solve the issue created by the winding of the mainspring: Namely, that tension changes as it winds down. The fusee seeks to stabilize this changing tension but eventually became obsolete due to the bulk it added to watches. 

Now, you have received an introduction to the history of timekeeping up to the invention of the portable mechanical watch. Fortunately, Jack Mason also provides information on modern watchmaking techniques, from the pocket watch to modern automatic and quartz watches.

We have always needed to tell time. The only thing that’s changed is the way we endeavor to tell it.

Sources: 

Timekeeping: How Did People Tell Time Before Clocks? I Curiosity Guide

No. 1469: The Hourglass I Engines of Our Ingenuity

A Chronicle Of Timekeeping I Scientific American

Watchmakers have always sought to push the craft forward. A community of vocal and dedicated aficionados constantly pushes trends in different directions. Because style, whether based on watch movement or case size, is anything but uniform. 

In the early days of watch development, complications (the other activities a watch can perform besides timekeeping) were unheard of. In an era where watches were too large even for pockets and were only accurate enough to tell the hour, progress meant better accuracy and smaller size.

Jack Mason is here to explain the hefty beginnings of the watch and the reason why thin watches became and remain desirable today. 

What Makes a Watch Size?

There are many practical considerations and demands upon the size of a watch. While watch sizes are most often measured by the case size, the element which most impacts case size is that which the case protects: The movement. The movement powers the watch, and more complicated movements demand more complicated machinery.

Most ultra-thin watches, in pursuit of lightness, do away with extensive complications, returning to the root of the timepiece as a timekeeping device. 

The upper limit for a thin watch is fairly generous, with any watch under 8mm being considered thin. Generally, 8mm and below watches are “thin,” 8mm to 12mm watches are average, and anything above 12mm is thick. However, although 8mm watches are considered thin, watchmakers would go much further in pursuit of the world's thinnest watch.

A History: Early Thick Watches 

Ironically, the very developments that made portable watches possible also condemned them to be large, unwieldy accessories. This was due to the now-defunct fusee.

This invention was a large cone that attached to the mainspring and would serve to increase accuracy as the mainspring began to wind down. While the fusee was a groundbreaking development, it was eventually phased out due to a tendency to break, as well as the size it added to watches. 

Early Thin Watches 

The earliest development of thin watches came about in the 18th Century. Watchmaker Jean-Antoine Lépine, while experimenting and attempting to make pocket watches smaller, invented what would be considered the modern mechanical movement. Through much work, he was able to ditch the drum-shaped movement created by the fusee.

In 1903, a new pocket watch movement, the Caliber 145, was invented. This movement was an astonishing 1.38mm thick. While watchmakers would tinker and slowly whittle down the record for the thinnest watch, the next major event in the history of the movement came from Japan in 1969.

The Quartz Revolution 

1969 was the year that quartz movements were introduced to the world. Prior to quartz, all major watch movements were mechanical in nature. Though automatic watches existed, automatic movement is a subtype of mechanical movements. Quartz watches eschewed the delicate mechanical engineering in favor of something else: Electricity.

At their core, quartz watches are battery-powered watches. The quartz crystal which gives the watch its name vibrates precisely when electricity passes through it. This powers the entire movement with a fraction of the previously needed watch parts.

With the invention of quartz, the needed interior components were simplified heavily. 

The Battle for the Thinnest Watch 

With a new, slender movement, it was only a matter of time before companies competed for the thinnest watch. In contemporary sizing, a watch is considered thin if it is under 8mms in thickness.

In 1979, the Delirium was introduced. This watch melded the caseback with the bottom plate of the watch movement and measured only 1.98mm in thickness. The later Delirium IV measured only .98mm. The latter watch did not feature traditional hands and was thin enough that it could not be worn without bending it.

The war of the thin watches ended ironically with a watch too impractical to wear, inverting the problems plaguing them in their early history.

Benefits To Wearing a Thin Watch 

We have discussed a bit of the hubris of the industry. However, when crafted sensibly, there are numerous benefits to wearing a thin watch.

• Comfort: Thin watches are lightweight without looking cheap. For those with smaller wrists or who simply don’t want to feel the weight of their wristwear, a thin watch can be more comfortable than a bulky one of similar case size. 
  
  
• Minimalism: Many have a strong need for the additional complications offered by sport watches. If, however, you desire a simpler watch to wear on your wrist, thin watches by nature tend to have simple, aesthetically oriented designs.
  
  
• These designs are created to take advantage of every surface while remaining as distinctively slim as possible.
  
  
• Cost: Unless you are going for an ultra-thin watch, thin watches tend to be cheaper than their standard and oversized counterparts. There are a few reasons for this.
  
  Firstly, many thin watches are made from smaller quartz movements, which are cheaper to make than mechanical or automatic movements.
  
  Secondly, due to necessity, many thin watches lack other complications, making them simpler and easier to construct.  

• Style: In a market where big watches are markedly trendy and are often used as statement pieces, a thin, understated piece makes an equally powerful statement. A thin watch subverts the trend to create a daring statement.
  
  A thin watch stands for sleekness and sophistication. It says that the wearer believes the strongest statement does not have to carry the most physical weight.

Cons of Wearing a Thin Watch 

No matter the craftsmanship, no watch is universally excellent. Despite their benefits, thin watches do have a few downsides relative to their larger counterparts.

• Durability: In eliminating all unnecessary elements, some things must be sacrificed. Thin mechanical watch movements are sometimes assembled in a way that is unstable, prioritizing thinness over construction.
  
  Also, as previously stated in regards to the Delirium IV, some ultrathin watches are more prone to damage. Still, as long as proper care is taken, durability should not be a concern unless dealing with highly specialized thin watches.

• Simplicity: Many thin watches lack the complications or safety features demanded from a pilot or divers watch. Save the thin watch for where it can shine, and use more durable sports watches when the situation calls for them. 

How To Find Your Watch Thickness 

After reading this, you may want to check out a thin watch for yourself or measure the thickness of the watches in your existing collection. However, aside from the notably ultra-thin watches, pieces are usually not advertised by their thickness.

There are many ways to figure out the thickness of a watch when this information is not readily available, but these are a few of the simpler ways:

1. Check Yourself: If you have a watch physically in front of you, the simplest way to measure the thickness is to lay the case flat, then place a ruler perpendicular to the length of the case, being careful not to scratch it. The measurement should be read from the very top of the crystal.
   
   
2. Search Company Websites, and Analyze Case and Movement Size (Estimate): Note that this measurement will not always give you an exact thickness but will still help you figure out how it will fit on your wrist. Using the internet to find out more about your watch can be simple and easy. 
   
   For example, Jack Mason’s Ellum showcases a Miyota 1L45 movement, which a Google search shows has a thickness of 2.93mm. The watch also has a 40mm case size, which is on the smaller end average for cases, and suggests a potentially smaller than average thickness. 
   
   
3. Inquire Directly: Many companies have on their websites the ability to contact them directly. Jack Mason, for instance, allows its users to send inquiries regarding specific watch models, whether the question is about the thickness or any other attribute.
   
   A watch is an investment, so we encourage doing your research before finding the perfect fit for you. 

How To Know if Wearing a Thin Watch Is Right For You 

Ultimately, there are only two questions to ask when deciding whether or not you should wear a thin watch.

Firstly, can you physically wear it? Though there are guides that can lead you to your ideal watch size, generally, band and case size are bigger concerns than watch thickness.

The second question is simpler: Do you want to? Choosing a watch, at least where thickness is concerned, is not quite the same as choosing a shirt. Watches of nearly every thickness are available to you, but what matters most is what you feel happy and confident wearing.

Thin watches provide a sleek and slender piece of wristwear, part of a historic hunt for perfection in both form and function.

Whether you want an alternative to the bulky, complication-packed sports watches in your closet, or simply wish to express your appreciation of the simpler things in life, a thin watch makes a wonderful way to exhibit your personal style. 

Sources:

How to Choose a Watch for Your Wrist Size I The Trend Spotter 

History of Watchmaking I Haute Horlogerie

The Concord Delirium I American Time Magazine

Watches come in remarkably different sizes. Being able to properly measure your own watch can be a godsend, especially when examining vintage watches or evaluating what you aesthetically want from the next addition to your wrist. Style is not the only concern at hand: An improperly sized watch can cause discomfort and even nerve damage. Over the course of this article, we will show you how to easily measure any wristwatch you own in the comfort of your own home.

Why Measuring Your Watch Case is Essential 

When purchasing a shirt, you would do more than simply look at it before making your purchase. Why, then, should watches be examined under a lesser degree of scrutiny? At Jack Mason, we understand that even the smallest details matter. Every single measurement of a watch is interrelated, affecting the overall size and appearance of the piece, which creates a distinct mark on your outfit and impression. 

Oftentimes, companies will list the dimensions of their offerings online. In practice, the listed dimensions may not always be perfectly accurate, or some important measurements such as thickness may be omitted. For these reasons and more, it is highly important that you be able to take the measurements of your watch yourself.

Depending on how a watch was acquired and where it is from, accurate information on dimensions may not be available. In their early history, watches tended to be smaller, and many vintage watches have since undergone changes in design relating to size upon reissue. Furthermore, it is possible for the features or embellishments of a watch to obscure the true size of the case.

The most common factor at play is the bezel. A watch with a thick bezel but a comparatively small dial will appear to have a smaller case than a watch with more proportionate features. However, in reality, the bezel can significantly add to the diameter of a case, which then adds to the thickness of the overall piece. 

Watch Size and Style

It should be noted that watches do not demand as perfect a fit as, say, a pair of shoes. A wrist can fit a range of sizes, allowing you to choose what you wear to make a statement matching your personal style. This is not to say that your choice in size should not be deliberate. Generally, men’s sizes start at around 34mm, though women’s watches and many vintage watches may run smaller. Tool watches such as dive watches tend to have larger case sizes to accommodate their extra features.

Additionally, for both men and women, large watches are becoming more popular. A large watch case may look great on your wrist under many conditions, but too thick a watch may cause your shirt or suit sleeves to bulge uncomfortably. On the other hand, too tight a watch may pinch or damage your wrist. 

How To Measure Your Watch Case 

A caliper will be needed for the measurements below, with one exception. A ruler may work in a pinch, but a caliper, ideally a digital one, will be the best tool for giving you the precise measurements needed. All measurements will be listed in millimeters, as that is the most commonly used metric for sizing. We will be covering the following topics:

• How To Use Your Caliper
• Measuring the Case of a Watch
• How to Measure Lug Width
• How To Measure Lug-to-Lug
• Measuring Thickness

How To Use your Caliper 

Because using a caliper is slightly more complicated than using a ruler, we will be briefly explaining how to use it. If you already know how to use one, feel free to skip to the next section, “Measuring the Case.”

Due to their accuracy and ease of legibility, the following description assumes that a digital caliper is being used. A caliper consists of a beam and a movable plastic or metal attachment, which assists in taking measurements and reading the scale. On one side of the caliper is a set of exterior-facing jaws meant to take measurements such as length and diameter. On the other side is a set of interior-facing jaws, meant for taking inside measurements such as the distance between the lugs of a watch.

One half of each set of jaws is connected to the beam, and the other half is connected to the movable attachment. On the attachment is a thumbscrew, which adjusts the jaws of the caliper. There is also a lock screw, which holds the jaws in place. Digital calipers have additional features such as a battery compartment and an ABS button that resets the digital measurement to zero, as well as a button that switches the measurement between inches and millimeters.

To take an interior measurement, loosen the lock screw, place the exterior-facing jaws in the space you are measuring, and adjust until the upper jaws touch the wall of the hole. Then, tighten the lock screw. Remove when finished.

To take an exterior measurement, follow a similar pattern. Instead clamp the interior-facing jaws around the facet of the watch you are measuring. 

Measuring the Case of a Watch 

To measure the diameter of your watch, place the interior-facing jaws of the caliper on two opposite ends of the timepiece, making sure to measure across the center of the watch. Always be gentle, so you don’t scratch your timepiece. You should endeavor, if possible, to take your reading from the three o’clock to nine o’clock position. If your watch has a crown or other feature preventing an accurate measurement from these positions, you can elect instead to take your reading slightly offset from them, such as two o’clock to eight o’clock or four o’clock to ten o’clock.

For watches that are not perfectly round, you should attempt to take a measurement, still crossing the center of the watch, where the diameter will be the smallest. While this is an imperfect solution, it is the most accurate one to gauge how it will lay on your wrist. Once you have the calipers properly placed, you can take a reading in millimeters to find the case size. For the most proportionate look, try the following case sizes based on the size of your wrist:

• Six inches: On the smaller end. Try 34mm-38 mm cases.
• Seven inches: Medium-sized. 39mm-42mm cases will work best.
• Eight inches: For individuals with large wrists, cases between 44mm and 47mm will give the most proportionate appearance.

How To Measure Lug Width 

Knowing how to measure the width between lugs is as important as knowing how to measure the case itself, as the lug width directly impacts the width of the strap you need to fit your timepiece.

Place one exterior-facing caliper on each lug, and make sure that you are measuring from the inner side of the lug and not the outer. Only the inner lug measurement determines the ideal strap width.

How To Measure Lug-to-Lug Distance 

Not to be confused with the lug width, lug-to-lug distance refers to the distance between the lugs on the opposite sides of a watch. This measurement affects how a watch will lay across your wrist, which is essential information. With your caliper, use the interior-facing jaws to measure the distance between two parallel lugs on opposite sides of the watch. This measurement, taken with your wrist size, will let you know how comfortably it will sit on your wrist.

Measuring Thickness

Thickness is a less measured, though no less important dimension of a watch. All previous measurements and features we have alluded to, which is to say the bezel, case size, and lug width, have an impact on watch thickness. Generally, a larger case size means a thicker watch. For individuals with especially slender wrists, a thicker watch may cause discomfort when worn with proportionate dress clothes. However, larger watches often come with more special features than their smaller predecessors.

For example, the Jack Mason Solar Watch is made from recycled material, features solar-powered movement, and is tested for water resistance for up to 100 meters. Thickness is the one metric where simplicity works best: Lay your watch flat and gently push a ruler, standing up against it. Avoid using a caliper, as in order to measure with it, you would have to clamp the jaws onto the crystal itself. Watch thicknesses vary less than case sizes, with most being between seven and nine millimeters. 

After Measuring 

Whether you have now measured every watch in your collection, wanted to prepare for future endeavors, or were simply curious about the topics of this article, you are now one step closer to being in complete control of your wardrobe. A word of advice: Every rule has exceptions. 

While the measuring guide should be taken as written, you know your own body and style better than anyone. Suppose you have a smaller wrist but want to show off a watch with an impressive case, or have a larger wrist but enjoy the look and feel of a smaller, sleeker design. In that case, we at Jack Mason encourage you to follow your true self and carry an extensive selection of watches to help you find them.

Sources:

How To Measure A Watch Case Size Easily [GUIDE] | The Slender Wrist

Radial Nerve Dysfunction | MedlinePlus

Digital Calipers: Why You Need This Tool in Your Collection | Family Handy Man

The watch is the quintessential fashion item. Whether worn for purely functional purposes or used to elevate an outfit, the benefits of wearing a watch far outweigh the negligible-at-best downsides.

Whether one wants a refresher on how to wear their favorite accessory or gain an introduction to an article whose reputation for style and dignity precedes itself, Jack Mason is here to offer the ultimate guide on how to wear a watch.

Fundamentals

There are a few key elements that are absolutely essential to one's horological future. How do you properly wear a watch? How do you navigate the numerous types and movements?

And how do you figure out the proper watch size for your wrist?

How to Wear a Watch 

One of the key rules to be aware of when wearing a watch is knowing which hand to wear it on. Most people wear their watch on their left hand. We say “most” for a reason: the non-dominant hand is the proper one on which to wear a watch. By wearing a watch on your off hand, you extend its lifespan and protect it from getting scratched in any of the myriad activities or exertions we use our dominant hand for.

Matching Your Watch to Your Outfit 

Choosing when to wear your watch is just as important as where you wear it. True fashion etiquette has become less rigorously structured since the latter half of the 20th century, but there are still some axioms about wearing your watch that hold true. 

Firstly, if you elect to wear a leather strap while also wearing leather shoes, both types of leather should match. This becomes easier to manage if you can find a watch with quick-release pins, which allow you to easily change and customize your strap to fit your outfit.

Secondly, if you have multiple metallic accents on your outfit, such as your belt buckle, shoe buckle, or cufflinks, you should endeavor, if possible, to match your case or band to the other metals. 

Deciding Which Watch is Right for You 

Now that you have had an introduction to rules to keep in mind when wearing your watch, it is time to take active steps in choosing an ideal watch. We will now be introducing the two key facets affecting both the aesthetic and practical functions of watches: Movement and type. 

Movement refers to the mechanism powering the movable elements of a watch, whereas type refers to the overall functionality of a watch.

Watch Movements 

There are three key types of watch movements: Mechanical, automatic, and quartz. Of these, mechanical is the oldest, followed by automatic, with quartz movement first appearing a scant 52 years ago.

Mechanical watch movements are defined by intricate, precise machinery and exquisite craftsmanship. These watches are powered by hand-wound springs and take daily maintenance. They often have partially clear case backs to exhibit the delicate machinery, which makes them appreciated by connoisseurs.

Automatic watch movements are actually a subcategory of mechanical watches, called automatic for their self-winding motors. The movement relies on the motion of the wrist, and for this reason, automatic watches were not successful until the popularization of wristwatches in the early 20th century. A rotor inside the watch rotates with movement, thus generating the power for the watch.

Automatic watches can still be hand wound however, as if they are not worn for a lengthy period of time the stored kinetic energy will deplete, and the watch will cease to function until it is wound or rotated once more. Automatic watches boast a heftier weight and increased size due to necessity than their mechanical and quartz counterparts. Both automatic and mechanical watches feature a constantly moving second hand, creating a beautiful legato, sweeping motion that they are appreciated for.

Quartz watch movements do not rely on mechanical parts like the previously listed movements do. Instead, a battery sends carefully measured bursts of electricity to a quartz crystal, which vibrates in precise measurements. Quartz watches tend to be more accurate but generally lack the fine, consistent sweeping motion. Instead, they create a staccato “tick tick” movement.   

Watch Types 

In truth, there are enough watch types to merit an article dedicated solely to them. But, for a general guide, we are going to briefly cover a few of the most common types.

Dress watches feature elegant designs and are meant to be appropriate under all formal situations. Though dress watches can be worn with casual attire, it is important for a dress watch to be smaller so that it can fit under long-sleeved shirts without bulging or bunching.

Field watches were originally developed for combat use, and this shows in their modern design. Practical, legible, stylish, and rugged: field watches make for the perfect all-terrain watch, no matter the occasion. 

Closely related are pilot watches, simple timepieces that feature larger dials and hands for maximum legibility. They also often are built to be more shock and water-resistant than other watches. 

Racing watches come packed with a massive array of complications, including chronographs, and for this reason, they tend to be larger than other watches.

Diver’s watches were developed in tandem with modern scuba equipment and are built to be more water-resistant as well as highly legible. Cinephiles may enjoy knowing that James Bond, in his current incarnation, often wears diver’s watches.

Sizing Yourself for Your Watch 

By now, you have received general style tips and been given an introduction to both watch movements and types. Only one step remains before you go forth and accessorize confidently: Measuring your wrist in order to discover your ideal watch size.

There are two easy ways to measure the size of your wrist. The first is to wrap a tape measure around your wrist and take the measurement that way. If you do not have a tape measure handy, there is a simpler, albeit less precise method, to take your measurement. By wrapping a dollar bill, which is six inches long, around your wrist, you can estimate by the amount of coverage it gives you what your wrist size is. Following our guide, wrist sizing works roughly like this:  

• 6 inches: Cases around 34mm - 38mm. 
• 7 to 7.5 inches: Cases around 39mm, 40mm, and 42mm.
• 8 inches and larger: Cases between 44-46mm, or even 47mm.

Additionally, we recommend the following dimensions for band size:

• 6.0 - 6.5” wrist or 150 - 164mm = 120/70mm
• 6.6 - 7.0” wrist or 165 - 178mm = 125/75mm
• 7.1 - 7.5” wrist or 179 - 190mm = 130/80mm
• 7.6 - 8.0” wrist or 191 - 203mm = 135/80mm
• 8.1 - 8.5” wrist or 204 - 216mm = 140/85mm
• 8.6 - 9.0” wrist or 217 - 229mm = 145/90mm

Navigating Watch Hazards 

Even for the most cautious of individuals, life happens. For that reason, these next few sections will discuss the most deadly dangers your watch may face on a semi-regular basis. After this, you will be fully equipped to find a watch you love and to wear and take care of it to the best of your ability.

Magnetism

A disclaimer: Magnetism is primarily an issue with mechanical and automatic watch movements, as quartz watches have components protecting them from the effect of magnetism. Many objects in daily life are magnetic to a small degree: Cell phones, tablets, radios, and other tech. Magnetism in small doses should pose no issue to a watch.

However, sometimes when a watch is exposed to a high degree of magnetism, the internal machinery can become magnetized, which translates to seconds or minutes gained or lost every day. The fix in cases like this is fortunately simple: Either take your watch to a local watchmaker, or else you can purchase a demagnetizer online.

If you are unsure whether or not your watch has been magnetized, you can try holding it above a compass. If the needle of the compass moves as the watch approaches it, then your watch has been magnetized and needs readjusting.

Beware of Water 

Water can spell demise for any kind of watch. Aside from diver’s watches, timepieces are largely not designed for use in water, merely to survive being used in water. When purchasing a watch, the depth of water resistance is listed, usually measured in meters. The most common water testing depth is 100 meters, though divers watches can be tested much deeper. This does not mean you can be totally carefree at the pool, however.

The depth test measures the amount of water pressure the protective gasket of the watch can withstand, and abrupt changes in pressure such as those caused by jumping off a diving board into a pool repeatedly can strain the gasket and cause water to leak into the watch. Additionally, adjusting the crown or other components of the watch underwater may temporarily break the seal created by the gasket. Neither the electronic components of quartz watches nor the machine components found in mechanical and automatic watches are water-proof, but with proper caution, water should prove no issue for your timepiece. 

You should also be wary of your watch band: Leather and some metals may be damaged by water, so for this reason, we recommend keeping these bands far away from the beach or pool. If they do get wet, immediately wipe them off to minimize damage.

Keeping Time in Check

Ultimately, the best watch for you is one you feel comfortable and confident in. Watches can be dressed up or dressed down, and there’s a watch for every hobby, event, and lifestyle. 

With careful love and treatment, your watch should keep ticking as long as you do. 

Sources:

The Five Main Watch Types… | Wristworthy

Tom Ford Interview: The Rules to Wearing a Watch | British GQ

What to Do if Your Watch Is Magnetized  | NY Times

As long as watches have existed, so have watch calibers. The caliber, also known as the movement, is a key component of any timepiece. Whereas the case protects the components of the watch, and the dial displays the time, the movement is the mechanism that causes all the movable elements of the watch to function. In this article, we at Jack Mason will endeavor to explain the subtle differences between two types of watch movements: Mechanical and Automatic.

Mechanical Movement: The First of Many 

The earliest mechanical watches appeared in the late 15th century and were so large they had to be worn on a belt. Worse, these clocks were only able to measure time by the hour. Subsequent centuries would improve the accuracy and efficiency of these materials, but the basic premise of the mechanical watch movement would remain the same. 

A mechanical watch movement starts with a tightly coiled flat spring. Without anything to control its movement, the spring would unspool immediately. However, the spring feeds into a series of slowly turning gears, which themselves are controlled by a secondary spring, called the hairspring. Jeweled bearings within the watch protect it from vibration and other motions which would otherwise damage or morph the internal components.

The late 19th and early 20th centuries would see the mass production of mechanical wristwatches, and WWI would solidify the significance of contemporary mechanical watches forever. Before the 20th century, mechanical wristwatches were predominantly used by women exclusively. By the end of the First World War, it became commonplace for soldiers to wear wristwatches and thus be able to read the time while keeping both hands free to fight. Nearly six years after Armistice Day, however, a rival to the old mechanical watch emerged.

The Entrance of the Automatic Watch

In 1924, John Harwood filed a patent for the world’s first automatic wristwatch. In truth, the history of the automatic watch is disputed, having started sometime in the late 18th century, but it is undisputed that Harwood brought automatic watches to the forefront as a convenient alternative to mechanical watches. 

The patent showed many improvements over older mechanical watches. Much of the interior remained similar, with one crucial difference: The automatic watch, true to its name, was self-winding. Whereas a mechanical watch needed to be hand-wound and would stop functioning after a few days without this maintenance, Harwood’s automatic watch held an oscillating weight that would wind the spring in response to the wearer’s kinetic energy.

In layman’s terms, the simple act of moving while wearing the watch winds the spring, which then unspools in a manner similar to that in ordinary mechanical watches. Otherwise, automatic watches are still operated by similar machinery to that in mechanical watches.

Here, we reveal to you the secret of these two watch varieties: All automatic watches are also mechanical watches. Both these watch movements use mechanical components to keep time, as opposed to quartz watches, which use electricity to power their movement. For the sake of clarity, we will still be using “mechanical” to refer to non-self winding watches, specifying all mechanical watches where relevant.

Winding Your Watch 

All mechanical watches still need to be wound, though automatic watches rarely need to be manually wound. A mechanical watch should, ideally, be wound every day, as its movement becomes less accurate the less taut the mainspring becomes. To wind any kind of mechanical watch, simply wind the crown clockwise. Once it has been properly wound, the watch should produce a bit of friction, essentially telling you it has been wound enough. Overwinding can damage the delicate machinery, but only if you force it well beyond the resistance point.

Automatic watches, on the other hand, cannot be overwound. They are created with specific mechanisms designed to prevent this from happening. If the natural movement of your wrist is not enough to power the movement on a sedentary day, or if you have not worn it and thus not powered it in a long time, gently shaking, winding, or rotating the watch should be enough to restart its movement. If you have an extensive collection of automatic watches, it is even possible to purchase a watch winder to wind your automatic watches while they are not being worn.

Durability and Accuracy of Different Watch Movements 

We will briefly discuss quartz movement again to offer a comparison between quartz watches and all mechanical watches. Quartz watches attained popularity in the 1970s and offered a sometimes sleeker, battery-powered alternative to mechanical and automatic watches. It is no secret that quartz watches, with their electrical components, have mechanical and automatic watches beat when it comes to accuracy. Mechanical and automatic watches both begin to lose accuracy as they come unwound, though not so severely as to render them definitively inferior. However, quartz watches do have some significant aesthetic differences from mechanical and automatic watches that merit discussion. In quartz watches, the movement of the second hand has a staccato, “tick tick” appearance, owing to the movement. In mechanical and automatic watches, the movement of the second hand is consistent and sweeping, owing to the constant spring or rotor movement occurring inside the watch.

How Do Mechanic Watches Differ in Feel From Automatic Watches? 

The internal differences in mechanical and automatic movements force some exterior differences as well. Mechanical watches are filled with delicate, precise machinery and dozens of moving parts that are sometimes so small that they require special tools made for watch repair. Many mechanical watches will have partially clear cases to expose the intricacy of the machine, turning the machine on your wrist into a work of art, in addition to a fashion piece and practical part of your attire.

Automatic watches, however, tend to be larger and weightier than their mechanical counterparts. The machinery inside, the weight, in particular, is larger and heavier than the internal components of mechanical watches. In some watches, it is possible to physically hear and feel the rotor moving as you rotate the watch, which to some may be a deterrent and to others may be a euphoric reminder of the craftsmanship they wear. 

Practical Considerations for the Watch Wearer 

Mechanical and automatic watches do share some similar weaknesses, and we would be remiss not to mention them here. Being mechanical, both are susceptible to the magnetism found in television, speakers, and other technology, as well as electric shocks. The negative impact these may have is easily fixed by merely adjusting the time when you have a nearby clock to use for reference.

A more practical issue, depending on your activity level, is the mechanical watch’s durability in regard to water. All watches are water-resistant to a degree while not being water-proof, but regular mechanical watches, in particular, are sensitive to moisture due to the complex array of precise machinery operating the movement. While a drop of water here and there would not cause the destruction of a watch, we recommend leaving your mechanical watch off for swimming unless the piece in question is a diver’s watch or otherwise has a high water resistance. 

Mechanical vs. Automatic: Pro and Con 

After this, you should feel a little more comfortable around the different types of watch movements, even if the debate over which one is best is not going away any time soon. Below, we are going to summarize some of the strengths and weaknesses of mechanical and automatic watches.

Mechanical 

Pro:

• Elegant machinery and movement.
• Many vintage watches will be mechanical.
• Longevity, if properly cared for.

Con:

• Needs daily winding.
• Will lose accuracy as it comes unwound.
• Generally more sensitive than quartz counterparts. 

Automatic 

Pro:

• Self-winding
• Smooth, sleek second-hand movement.
• Cheaper and easier maintenance than regular mechanical watches.

Con: 

• Will need to be rewound if you are inactive or not a daily wearer.
• Noise and feel of weight moving may be a pro or con, depending on preferences.

Many of the strengths and weaknesses of automatic and mechanical watches are similar. This is because they both have a closely related heritage, the former belonging to the larger, latter group. Mechanical watches may not be for everyone. Certainly, automatic watches are significantly simpler in regard to upkeep for those of you who find yourself on the go more often than not. Whichever route you take, the level of detail bestowed upon these watches is something not to be missed.

Mechanical Vs. Automatic: The Final Analysis 

By now, you have learned about the storied history of mechanical timepieces and had a chance to view some of the complications they have and continue to overcome. In our opinion, it is not up to a single authority to declare automatic or mechanical watches to be superior.

We believe that they are both of equal value, whether you choose to wind by hand or by the strides you take in your life every day. What we can say in confidence, however, is that by wearing any kind of watch, you are dedicating yourself to interacting with a degree of craftsmanship and innovation whose history is as elegant as its execution.

Sources: 

History of Watchmaking I Haute Horlogerie

How World War I Changed Watches Forever I Bloomberg

Over-Winding A Watch: Automatic vs Mechanical vs Hand-Wound I The Slender Wrist

What defines the value of a watch? Certainly not the price. Is it the case size? Watches in the last half-century have started to trend bigger, but size does not speak to the exterior beauty of a piece or to the nuanced internal machinery that helps give watches their singular, stylish appeal. We would like to propose this particular factor as being crucial: The movement.

The movement of a watch is the beating heart around which all other practical and aesthetic considerations must be designed and thus determines what a watch is and what it can be. Automatic watches, in particular, marry classic craftsmanship and modern ingenuity for a pragmatic and gorgeous solution to your daily needs. This article will examine what makes automatic watches special and showcases some of the best offerings under $500.

Mechanical, Automatic, and Quartz: Differences Between Watch Movements 

Perhaps you are already familiar with automatic watches. Perhaps you are merely familiar with the phrase “watch movement.” It may even be that you are looking to find an entry point into the world of watches. Regardless of whether you are a connoisseur or an eager novice, it is essential when searching for a new watch to fully understand what sets it apart from the competition. For this reason, we will be briefly touching on other types of watch movements and what makes automatic watches uniquely attractive. 

Simply put, the watch movement is the function that causes the movable parts within a watch to operate and allows the watch to accurately measure time. The three most prominent watch movements will be discussed: Quartz, mechanical, and, of course, automatic. 

Quartz Watches 

Quartz watches emerged during the latter half of the 20th century. Rather than relying on the fine-crafted machinery of their mechanical and automatic counterparts, quartz watches use battery-powered electrical currents in order to produce the vibrations that make a clock tick. Electricity is sent in controlled bursts to a quartz crystal, which then vibrates in a precise manner to cause the hands to move forward in the familiar ticking fashion.

Because of the movement, quartz watches may be marginally more accurate timekeepers than their counterparts. However, by virtue of their simple interior, quartz watches tend to lack the complicated caseback visuals that mechanical and automatic watches showcase elegantly. 

Mechanical Watches 

A word on nomenclature: All automatic watches are mechanical watches. In truth, there are two main types of watches: Electric and mechanical. Mechanical watches are then subdivided into nonwinding, often simply called mechanical, and automatic. However, mechanical watches as a whole predate automatic watches by centuries.

The earliest portable mechanical watches appeared in the late 15th century, though “portable” is a phrase to be used with a disclaimer: The earliest mechanical watches were so large that they had to be worn around one's neck or belt. The element that distinguishes mechanical watches from electronic watches is their movement. In mechanical watches, the movement is caused by a complex series of small machinery, powered by a slowly uncoiling wound-up spring.

The spring slowly unwinds into a series of gears, whose turning speed is controlled by a secondary spring, called a hairspring. Mechanical watches must be manually wound, and while they do showcase fine and delicate craftsmanship, they also become less accurate as they come unwound. In addition, they also require more upkeep than other movements.

Automatic Watches 

Automatic watches still rely on inner machinery to properly measure time, but unlike their normal mechanical counterparts, they do not need to be manually wound. Rather, automatic watches are wound by the energy generated by the wearer's activities of daily life. This self-winding feature is the key difference between automatic watches and their counterparts.

An automatic watch’s movement is powered by a weighted rotor which turns in response to the user's wrist movements. As such, an automatic watch lives in a space where it exhibits both the detailed craftwork of mechanical watches and the low upkeep of quartz watches.

For these reasons, they offer the wearer a crucial solution in both form and functionality. An additional feature unique to automatic watches: The weighted rotor inside often adds a palpable weight to the watch, giving them a special sense of gravitas.

The Origins of the Automatic Watch 

The earliest automatic watches appeared in the 1770s but failed to become popular due to their unreliability. During the 1770s, pocket watches were still the norm, and as such, the mechanisms remained too sedentary to be functional. Wristwatches, prior to the 20th century, were primarily seen as womenswear. They became popular across the entire market following military usage in the Boer War and WWI. A few short years later, in 1923, John Harwood claimed the first patents for automatic wristwatches. The need for larger internal mechanisms meant that automatic watches were often heftier than their mechanical counterparts, which contributed to the trend for the big watches we see today. A happy complication of the increased size is that automatic watches often have additional features, adding to their practicality and design.

The Best Automatic Watches Under $500 

By this point, you have been introduced to the unique appeal which has helped automatic watches gain a foothold in the market for the last century.

Below, Jack Mason has collected some of the best automatic watches under $500 on the market, taking into careful consideration the special features which set them apart not only from other watches in general but other automatic watches in particular. 

Pursuit Automatic Box Set: $289 & $319 

The Pursuit Automatic Box Sets feature two different 42mm models, which we will discuss together and then separately. Both models feature sapphire crystal and 316L stainless steel cases to maximize protection and sleekness of appearance, as well as crisp Miyota 8215 movement. Included are SuperLuminova markings on the watch dial, allowing for easy readings at night. Inspired by a timeless pilot’s watch design, they both highlight an elegant caseback. This allows one a glance at the watch’s inner workings, which automatic watches are known for.

For $289, the Pursuit has an understated black case and dial, which you can accent in a tasteful monochrome with a black NATO strap or highlight more flashily with the tan Italian leather strap that comes included in the box set.

For $319, the Pursuit 2 features a more elegant, classic appearance, featuring a stainless steel case and a navy dial with gold accents. The watch comes with both a stainless steel chain-link bracelet band and a more neutral leather strap. Both are easily customized with the quick release pins of the watch, allowing for a more formal or casual appearance, depending on the occasion. For additional options, both the Pursuit and the Pursuit 2 are compatible with any Jack Mason 22mm strap.

• Highlights: Both contemporary black and classic steel case styles are available to match your personal preference. Further customization options are available with the quick-release pins and additional strap included in either box set. 

Canton Day Date: $289 

This starkly stunning 40mm watch creates its eye-catching silhouette through a beautiful blue dial with cutting, silver dauphine hands. With sapphire crystal, durable 316L steel links, and water resistance tested to 100 meters, the Canton Day Date is built with legacy in mind. The watch additionally includes SuperLuminova markings for increased legibility at night and is compatible with any Jack Mason 20mm watch band, allowing for customization. 

Also featured is the exhibition caseback, which makes the intricate machinery special to automatic watches visible, increasing the intrigue and visual appeal of the timepiece.

In summation, the Canton Day Date in style and function harkens back to the very elements that have made automatic watches great while offering enough innovation to hint towards the movement’s future.

• Highlights: The classic design, sky-blue dial, and multifaceted indices make this watch visually stunning while still combining contemporary aesthetic choices. The understated caseback gives a glance at the Miyota 8205 movement, which makes this watch truly unique.

Seatrek Automatic Box Set: $359 

If you are searching for a hefty tool watch to suit any practical needs you may have, look no further than the 42mm Seatrek Automatic Box Set. True to its name, this diver’s watch is water resistance tested at 300 meters, additionally featuring a screw-down crown, divers extension, and sapphire crystal to ensure your watch has the maximum protection and comfort possible.

This box set comes with both a rubber strap and a stainless steel band, easily interchangeable through quick release pins, meaning that the Seatrek Automatic will be ready-to-wear immediately, in any context. Additionally, the sleek, monochromatic dial and bezel feature dual-colored SuperLuminova markings, allowing for quick and accurate readability at night or in darkness.

• Highlights: With a bevy of features designed for divers, the Seatrek is an affordable, durable, and intensely gorgeous watch. Legibility-enhancing markings on both the dial and rotating anodized aluminum bezel assist with reading at night or on deep dives in a fashion-forward manner.

Watching Trends

Watches are a rich part of our history as a culture and continue to dazzle and assist us as we go about our everyday lives. However, owning and keeping watches can be expensive.

With Jack Mason, everyone is offered a chance to live out their dreams: whether a businessman on the go or an explorer swimming to the bottom of the sea. These watches may be fit for every day, but they are truly one-of-a-kind. 

Sources:

Men's Watches Keep Getting Bigger I New York Times

History of Watchmaking I Haute Horlogerie

History of Automatic Watch I History of Modern Watch

Watches make fantastic statement pieces. They are mechanical works of art worn on your wrist that can add class to any outfit. But getting into watches can be overwhelming; there is a lot of terminology that gets thrown around, and it can be difficult to understand all of it at first. 

Jack Mason is here to help unpack a little bit of that and to teach you about automatic watches and what sets them apart from the rest.

A Broad Overview of Watches 

When first picking a watch, there are two big choices to make when it comes to what kind of watch you want. The first is to choose between a quartz watch and a mechanical watch. 

Quartz Watches vs. Mechanical Watches

Quartz watches have a small battery inside that is used to power the movement, the movement being the internal mechanism of the watch that causes the hands to move. Mechanical watches lack a battery, and instead, their movement is powered by the assortment of gears inside. 

This is when you have to make your second big choice; choosing between a manual winding and an automatic watch.

Manual Winding vs. Automatic

Manual winding watches require you to, as the name implies, manually wind up the mainspring, which powers the movement via a crown on the side of the watch face. The mainspring is a spring that's nestled inside of the watch that, as the crown is wound, will get tighter and tighter. The unwinding of that tension is what makes the hands move.  And as that tension is gradually lessened throughout the day, each second that goes by means another tick, and the "battery" runs lower and lower. 

Most mechanical watches have a life anywhere between twenty hours or forty hours. Some extremely high-end watches can last for seventy hours. But no matter how long the battery is, you're still typically winding your watch every other day. Automatic watches can have a significantly longer battery life as the mainspring is "recharged," in a sense, by the natural movement of your arms swinging. Let's go into some detail on how that works now.

How Does an Automatic Watch Generate Power 

The idea is that an automatic watch can take the natural kinetic energy from the movement of your arm and wind the mainspring with it. A semi-circular weighted rotor on the inside of the watch is connected to the mainspring through a series of gears. That way, as your arm moves, so does the rotor. When the rotor makes a rotation, the mainspring is wound tighter and tighter. 

The best part of this is that if you're wearing an automatic watch, you will no longer have to wind your watch every day, or even every other day. Oftentimes you can wear your watch for several weeks at a time without needing to manually wind it again. 

This does come with two downsides. One is that the watch is naturally thicker than its manually-wound counterparts, as it has the additional component of the rotor inside. The other is that you then have to wear that one watch every day if you want to get the most out of that automatic winding functionality.

Info on Winding an Automatic Watch 

When you first purchase an automatic watch, you'll need to do a bit of hand-winding to get the mainspring going, as there probably hasn't been enough kinetic energy to keep it wound. To do this, just push the crown (the circular knob on the side of the watch) all the way in and turn it clockwise. This will wind the mainspring. 

The only time this differs is if the automatic you purchased is a sports watch. These are designed to have their crowns screwed in so that they can't break off and damage the movement if the watch is hit. To wind, the mainspring just unscrews the crown out a bit from the case, and then you should be able to wind it normally.

One of the more frequently asked questions is, "Is it possible to overwind in an automatic watch?" This is an issue that can crop up with normal hand-wound watches. With those, if you are hand winding and you don't notice the increasing tension, it's possible to damage the internal mechanism. Fortunately, this is not something you'll have to worry about with most automatic watches.  

How to Choose an Automatic Watch 

Watches are in a really interesting place right now. It's never been easier to know exactly what time it is. It's on our phones; it’s on our computers; it's even on our ovens. But watches remain as popular as ever. And the reason for that is twofold. 

Firstly, there are circumstances where having a watch is a necessity. Divers use them to check how long they've been under the water for, soldiers in the field use them as an analog replacement to tell the time, sailors use them in extended trips; there are scenarios where watches just tell the time better than a phone. 

And secondly, watches are amazing fashion pieces. They can radically enhance an outfit, they can make conversation pieces, and so, in the same way that suits will never go out of style, watches will be around for a long, long time. 

Kevin O'Leary, of Shark Tank fame, is also a renowned watch collector, and his collection is valued in the millions. He has a quote that expresses his philosophy on watches, saying, "I don't care about telling the time, I care about the dial. I use my phone to tell the time." This works for him because he's most likely wearing watches during business meetings, while filming, or going out on the town. The practicality of the watch isn't a concern for him because it's not something that he has to worry about.

But of course, not everyone has the life of luxury that Mr. Wonderful has. Some people need, or just want, practicality, a timer, a calendar function, a barometer, a star chart, or maybe even the phases of the moon. What's most important is to find what matters the most to you and to think about when and why you'll be wearing this timepiece. And, while there's nothing wrong with wearing a watch just because it's beautiful, it's also important to know how to style it.

How to Style an Automatic Watch 

When purchasing a watch, you need to think about why and when you'll wear it. Try and match your watch with the scenario you'll most likely be wearing that watch in and the outfit that that activity might require. Let's take a look at a couple of common scenarios now.

Sports Watches

As the name implies, it's impossible to go wrong with a sports watch. These typically have their crowns screwed into the case so that, no matter how hard it gets hit, it won't break off into your movement and destroy the internal mechanism.

If you live by the seaside and enjoy sailing or diving, a diving watch makes an excellent choice as they typically have the best water-resistance ratings. 

Everyday Wear

A common everyday watch would be one comprised of a stainless steel face and bracelet because they're simple, beautiful, and pair with almost any outfit. As they’re made from stainless steel, they also benefit from being incredibly durable. 

Another excellent option would be a field watch. Field watches were originally made for soldiers in WW1 but retained their popularity because they're well constructed, sturdy, and still manage to look great. They often come with canvas straps, which can pair easily with anything from simple outdoor wear, to beachwear, to jeans and a casual button-up shirt. Just make sure to get a strap and dial that don't clash with the typical colors of your wardrobe.

Formal Wear 

For the office, try a leather strap. If you can, try and find leather that matches your belt and shoes, as that will create a very cohesive look and elevate your outfit. If you often find yourself at black-tie events, simple is often be better. Try a black leather band paired with a simple white face. In those situations, you don't want the watch to be too distracting from the rest of the outfit.

Automatic watches make excellent starter watches. Just be sure to wind it every so often if not wearing it every day, and try and match your watch with the outfits you might most frequently wear it in.

Sources:

What is kinetic energy? | Khan Academy 

Black tie dress code explained | British GQ

Kevin O'Leary | Shark Tank | ABC

Watches have been a staple in fashion for hundreds of years and, just like anything with such a long record, that comes with a lot of history and vocabulary. Why, for example, do collectors value automatic watches more highly than quartz watches when quartz watches are almost always more precise? 

Below, we'll go over a bit of the history between automatic and quartz watches, some keywords frequently used in horology (aka the art of making watches), and what the common consensus is on them now. Let's start with a little bit of history.

A Brief History of Watches 

The first wristwatch was made in the early 1800s as a gift to the Queen of Naples from Swiss horologist Abraham-Louis Breguet. Because the watch was intended for a queen, wristwatches were commonly viewed as women's luxury items, whereas men would primarily wear pocket watches.

That, like so many other things, changed during the onset of WW1. Soldiers had to carry an enormous amount of equipment, and one such item was a pocket watch. These were fragile, clunky to take out and put back in their pack or coat, and were viewed as just one more item to carry around. 

And so, the trench watch was born. They had canvas straps, were significantly more durable than pocket watches at the time, and, because of their placement on their wrist, no longer had to be stowed when not in use. They became a permanent fixture on the soldier's arms.

After the war, American soldiers continued to wear their wristwatches as they'd grown so used to wearing them. Because of this, watches became something of a cultural icon. Seeing these victorious men-at-arms returning home, wearing wristwatches, created an image of masculinity and power, and so watches became mainstream pieces for men to wear.

The Quartz Crisis 

After the war, the technology of watches accelerated rapidly. Because of their prominence amongst soldiers, they now had to be made for a variety of weather conditions, they needed to be waterproof, and they needed to be accurate. 

And so, in 1969, Seiko unveiled the quartz watch. It was battery-powered, and because of that, it was significantly cheaper to mass-produce. It also had fewer moving parts than an automatic watch, meaning that they were less prone to failure and more accurate than the mechanical movements of the day. They exploded in popularity, and Swiss watchmakers were suddenly in danger of going out of business.

What wound up saving Swiss watchmaking was the Swatch. They were cheap, brightly colored mechanical watches made of plastic. They also only had 51 parts, which was around half of what the average mechanical watch had at the time. 

Whereas before, your options for a wristwatch were between a relatively expensive automatic watch and a cheap quartz one, Swatches created a cheaper mechanical market that didn't previously exist. They were fun and colorful, and they had some brilliant marketing behind them.

Because of this new low-end market, the higher-end market began to grow in popularity again. As with so many things in fashion, the automatic watches that were starting to be seen as expensive and old became highly desired items again. The lower-end market became saturated with Swatch imitators, and people wanted to go back to the classics. Automatics and their fascinating movements became popular again, and now the watch market has largely balanced itself out.

What Is Automatic Movement?

The word movement has been brought up several times now, so let's go over what it actually means. Movement is a name for the mechanical underpinnings of the watch that work to power it, meaning the dial and any complications such as a calendar, a day/night cycle, or alternate time zones. A complication is a name for the parts on the face of a watch that does anything other than telling the time.

A mechanical watch is any watch that has a mechanism, called a mainspring, that powers its movement. A mainspring is a spring that gets wound tighter and tighter, and, as it releases its tension, the dials on the watch begin to move.  An automatic watch falls under this category but, what sets it apart, is that it can use the kinetic energy of your arm's movement to wind its mainspring.

Automatic watches are equipped with a weighty, semi-circular rotor. As your arm swings back and forth, that rotor will spin around, tightening the mainspring and powering the watch. If you wear your automatic watch every single day and have an active lifestyle, you main never have to manually wind the mainspring after your initial purchase. If it just sits without any movement, a typical automatic watch can take anywhere from thirty to forty hours for the mainspring to fully wind down. 

What Is Quartz Movement? 

Quartz watches are a relatively new creation, having only come out in 1969. They are powered by a battery instead of a mainspring. Inside of them lies a quartz crystal which vibrates when electricity passes through it. That vibration is sent to a stepping motor which is then sent to a dial train. The dial train causes the hands to move.

The key difference is that the most complicated component on a quartz watch is the circuit board, which can be mass-produced on a much larger scale than the machinery required for an automatic watch. And because the quartz watch has such a small number of parts, instead of the potentially hundreds of parts of a mechanical watch, they are less prone to wearing down, so they're overall more accurate.

All of this comes with a downside, though. Quartz watches die. They are, after all, a piece of consumer electronics. And so, in the same way that your laptop might falter and die after a decade of use, so too will a quartz watch. For some, this is a non-issue. But for you, if you want your watch to be a piece that your children might inherit someday, that could pose a problem.

So now you're faced with the same conundrum that consumers have faced for the past fifty years: automatic or quartz?

Deciding What Kind of Watch Is Right for You 

It all comes down to what you want in a watch. Automatic watches are incredible works of craftsmanship and, if you have one with a clear back, you can even see the hundreds of small gears working away, showing you the passage of time. And if you give an automatic watch the proper level of care, they can run for decades, if not lifetimes. They are conversation pieces; they show artistry and craftsmanship, and the process of winding/daily wearing can be cathartic for some. But maybe that's not the case for you.

If you are searching for a watch that you know you can rely on, with little maintenance or daily care, quartz watches are amazing. They are incredibly accurate and reliable. If you're just getting into watch collecting, you don't want to deal with the added work of an automatic watch, or you just want a simple watch without the added filigree, quartz watches are an excellent watch.

Keep in mind what you're looking for in a watch and, no matter your choice, you'll have a beautiful accessory to add to your outfits.

Sources:

A Timeless History of the Swatch Watch | Mental Floss

Watch Market – Growth | Trends | Forecasts (2020 - 2025) | Mordor Intelligence

3 Types Of Watch Movements | Difference Between Quartz | Real Men, Real Style